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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Steve Damboise, Charley Bentley 1991
Page Views: 1,549 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Jun 5, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

The Agronaut offers some old-school 80's sport climbing: crimpy and technical moves on a slightly overhanging wall. Locate the Left Roof, which is just right of Vultures. The Argonaut follows three bolts up the right side on the wall. Expect tweaky climbing on pretty good crimps, and the use of the dreaded outside edge of your boots (er, sorry, I meant shoes).

This route is one of the most consistently dry routes in New Hampshire, if not in all the country, as it ends at anchors at the base of the huge horizontal roof.

Protection

Three bolts

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  5.13a
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  5.13a
After sending this route, I have to say that I quite enjoyed it. Yes, it's short, but all of the moves are pretty interesting. It's powerful and technical and fairly sustained for it's length (at least for someone who is primarily a boulderer like me). While the crimp sequence is probably the hardest single move, the redpoint crux for me was the weird stand up move into the undercling just below the anchor. That's where I fell every time until I sent.

Kind of like the Bottom Feeder of Rumney, but perhaps a little harder? Oct 17, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  5.13a
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  5.13a
Thanks for the reply, Jay. I'm a big fan of techy crimping, so this route caught my eye. Hopefully I'll get on it while I'm back. Oct 7, 2015
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Hi Christian, I thought the hardest move was about midway on the route. I think where the line veers left (check out the photo), you grab a hold out left and make a hard move to a flat crimp. Clipping the anchors was hard as well, but not as hard as that midway move. Now that I think about it, that crux move was really cool, and kinda made the route doing, despite it being so short. Hope this helps! Oct 6, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  5.13a
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  5.13a
Jay- I know it's been a while for you, but where's the crux on this route? The first 2/3's seems like straight forward crimping, the top looks like it might be sequencey. This line intrigues me as it seems well suited to my strengths (and preference for shorter routes). Oct 6, 2015
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
How about AverageNaught Dec 30, 2013
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Aggro, not agro, coming from the word aggravation :) Dec 30, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
people don't use that word enough these days... its a waste really... Dec 29, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Get agro on it Lee. Dec 29, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
just to be clear... i should switch the spelling then? Dec 26, 2013
Stevie wasn't exactly an English professor, but calling this route AGRONAUT wasn't a mistake. Dec 25, 2013

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