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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Attrosity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Midnight Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Police and Thieves T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Summer Teeth T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toothless Grin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Rich Baker & Ann Yardley May, 1992
Page Views: 980 total · 9/month
Shared By: E thatcher on Nov 13, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

A route characterized by variety, Bete Noir starts with some easy climbing to tricky face climbing involving a high heal hook. Past this section, some climbing gets you to a short bolt protected slab (crux) followed by a burly jug haul out the overhang.

Location

75 feet to the right of the Yellow Matter Buttress, 5 feet to the left of Dave Jone's Locker

Protection

All of the hard moves are very well protected with bolts. Bring a standard rack of cams to protect between bolts.

Photos

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climberKJ
Holderness, NH
climberKJ   Holderness, NH
I'm 5'2". The overhang bolt looked impossible to reach from the ramp below. Any short people have experience with this? Mar 25, 2012

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