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Areas in Sundown Ledge

Alcohol Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Boulder Loop Trail Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Call of the Wild Cliff 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Far Cliff, The 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Gill's Groove Crag 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Lost Horizon 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Main Cliff 16 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 33
Outback Cliff 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Parking Lot Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Description

This area encompasses all of Sundown's many separate cliffs: The Main Cliff, Lost Horizon Cliff, The Outback Cliff, The Far Cliff, and Gill's Groove Crag.

Sundown Ledge is really the centerpiece of the Kancamagus climbing area. While probably 90% of the climbing activity is rightly focused on The Main Cliff or Lost Horizon Cliff, climbers who venture off the beaten path will be rewarded by solitude, and in some cases, some of the best climbing the area has to offer.

Getting There

All of the Sundown cliffs can be accessed from the parking lot by the Albany Covered Bridge. This is located where Passaconaway Road (aka Dugway Road) intersects with the Kancamagus Highway.

92 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sundown Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V6-7 7A+
The Butterknife
Boulder
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rock Garden
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bon Temps Rouler
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kennel Boy
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vultures
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agent Orange
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dikenstein
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
The Promised Land
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
The Big Rip
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Romper Room
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyeless in Gaza
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gill's Groove
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mithras
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Papa
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Yellow Matter Custard
Sport
The Butterknife Boulder Loop Trail Boulders V6-7 7A+ Boulder
Rock Garden Lost Horizon 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Bon Temps Rouler Main Cliff 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Kennel Boy Lost Horizon 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Vultures Main Cliff 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Agent Orange Main Cliff 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Dikenstein Main Cliff 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Promised Land Main Cliff 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Big Rip Main Cliff 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Romper Room Main Cliff 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Eyeless in Gaza Main Cliff 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Gill's Groove Gill's Groove Crag 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Mithras Main Cliff 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Big Papa Main Cliff 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad
Yellow Matter Custard Main Cliff 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sundown Ledge »

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Photos

dragons
MWV, NH
dragons   MWV, NH
According to Friends of the Ledges, Sundown Ledge is open for climbing as of March 28, 2017. May 4, 2017
dragons
MWV, NH
dragons   MWV, NH
The Boulder Loop trail is now completely open again. I don't know exactly when it reopened. I went for a little hike there yesterday, and the signs are all down. Jan 30, 2017
dragons
MWV, NH
dragons   MWV, NH






The brush fire that started last week did considerable damage to this area, which is now closed. The closure notice says you can be fined up to $5000 and/or imprisoned for 6 months for violating it.

We talked to a ranger who told us that this area will probably be closed until at least Spring of 2017. Apparently there is some concern about "snag trees" that might fall down on your head. Bummer. Nov 18, 2016
Anybody know what the bolted line is to the right of confederacy of dunces? I wasn't sure if it was an open project, but I couldn't find any information in the Handren guide or here. May 31, 2016
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Every time I visit here I think "Wow, this place is f'n awesome. Easy parking, casual approach until the talus field and then it's only a few minutes of rock hopping to the cliff band, routes of all variety/difficulty, and some of the best sport climbing I've been on." Plenty of great trad lines as well. I'm always amazed when we have the area to ourselves on a busy weekend. :) Aug 31, 2015

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