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Yellow Matter Custard
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.8 from 11
votes
Routes in Main Cliff
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[Redacted] T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Attrosity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Big Rip, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Sunday T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Bobcat Junior T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a A0 |
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Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Broken Tooth T A2 |
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Captain Underpants T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Exodus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Exodus to the Promised Land S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Flight of the Falcon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Glueless S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Last Nailbender, The T A3 |
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Love Buzz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Midnight Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Minas Morgul S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Minas Tirith S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mithril S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Police and Thieves T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Razor Crack T C1 |
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Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Shadowline T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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She's Crafty S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Siddhartha S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Summer Teeth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Toothless Direct T A2 |
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Toothless Grin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Jason Stern, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 7,385 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Mar 29, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Yellow Matter Custard is yet another perfect sport route on Sundown's Main Cliff. While Yellow Matter Custard retains a reputation for fingery, sharp climbing, the route still requires more than just finger strength. All of those crimps lead to a pretty sizable pump, and the redpoint crux might be managing whatever fatigue you sustained on the lower, crimpy crux.
Start just left of the popular Romper Room, and climb up a series of stacked blocks. Pre-clipping the first bolt is a good idea. At the first bolt, the rock changes to the best Sundown has to offer: fine grained with crisp, good edges. From here, the climb follows a shallow groove with increasingly hard moves that culminate with a sequential crux. The crux ends with a big lock off to a perfect rail.
The climbing to the anchor, while definitely heroic in feel, keeps the send in question until the final moment. It amazes me that this climb was bolted and sent in the 1980's. Despite the lycra tights and the high-top boots, those guys knew a good sport route when they saw one.
Start just left of the popular Romper Room, and climb up a series of stacked blocks. Pre-clipping the first bolt is a good idea. At the first bolt, the rock changes to the best Sundown has to offer: fine grained with crisp, good edges. From here, the climb follows a shallow groove with increasingly hard moves that culminate with a sequential crux. The crux ends with a big lock off to a perfect rail.
The climbing to the anchor, while definitely heroic in feel, keeps the send in question until the final moment. It amazes me that this climb was bolted and sent in the 1980's. Despite the lycra tights and the high-top boots, those guys knew a good sport route when they saw one.
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