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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Jason Stern, 1988
Page Views: 3,974 total, 38/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Mar 29, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Yellow Matter Custard is yet another perfect sport route on Sundown's Main Cliff. While Yellow Matter Custard retains a reputation for fingery, sharp climbing, the route still requires more than just finger strength. All of those crimps lead to a pretty sizable pump, and the redpoint crux might be managing whatever fatigue you sustained on the lower, crimpy crux.

Start just left of the popular Romper Room, and climb up a series of stacked blocks. Pre-clipping the first bolt is a good idea. At the first bolt, the rock changes to the best Sundown has to offer: fine grained with crisp, good edges. From here, the climb follows a shallow groove with increasingly hard moves that culminate with a sequential crux. The crux ends with a big lock off to a perfect rail.

The climbing to the anchor, while definitely heroic in feel, keeps the send in question until the final moment. It amazes me that this climb was bolted and sent in the 1980's. Despite the lycra tights and the high-top boots, those guys knew a good sport route when they saw one.

Location

Just left of Romper Room, on the left side of its namesake Yellow Matter Buttress.

Protection

Bolts. The route was upgraded recently and all the bolts are new.

Photos

DCSwish23
Maine/Spain
 
DCSwish23   Maine/Spain
 
Awesome route! I think my beta was a bit funky on the first half, but so much fun! It kicked my ass on the first try but then it came together really quickly.

About the previous comments for anchor (they are old, I know), but it all seemed good to me.

For anyone looking to get on this it gets pretty decent shade most of the day in the summer from trees and stays fairly dry on all the hard moves. Once you step a foot out right there's a streak that gets wet, but not much of an issue. Sep 21, 2016
bayard russell jr
Madison, NH
bayard russell jr   Madison, NH
No not at all, doesn't change that aspect of the route. This just puts the anchor where most climbers went anyway.

Anyway, check it out sometime. If you really don't like it can go away, and no one will be able to tell it was ever there. It also works better for Frigid relations. May 10, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Bayard, do you need gear now? Where the anchors were before, you didn't need gear. May 9, 2011
bayard russell jr
Madison, NH
bayard russell jr   Madison, NH
I moved the anchor to more logical place above the flake. The old anchor's studs are still there, so if someone strongly prefers the old location it can be easlily moved back. It never made any sense to me why it was where it was, the natural line is finishing up the flake, ending on good holds at the end of the difficulties. Before you would either have to do a contrived move away from the flake, or, clip the anchor at your calf. Apparently they used to climb the flake and take a right it an anchor on Romper Room that since been moved, hence the need for a cam. Check it out, let me know..

Ed Webster says the Big Pickle moves left from YMC into Pastryworks. May 9, 2011
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I remember the anchor being over the lip but that was in the early 90s so things may have changed since then. I think the Big Pickle does what you describe but I was never interested so I have no firsthand knowledge. Aug 20, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Peter, I have been wondering about the gear needed for the flake. The Webster guide makes reference to it as well. I didn't see a need for gear up there and I'm not that bold. My hunch is that the anchors have been lowered. Basically you go to the flake, make one or two moves, and then you clip the anchors. No real need for gear.

Does The Big Pickle link YMC to Pastryworks? I've seen the lone bolt between those routes, but I don't really understand it. Aug 20, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Climbers on this route may find a medium-sized stopper or Friend useful for the last 15 feet or so on the flake. The yellow line in the photo goes a bit too far left at the top IMO but anyone climbing this will realize the right way to go. Both this and Pastryworks can be readily inspected by climbing Frigid Relations which I believe joins Pastry Works' final flake. You can also slide over from the top of Romper Room.

There is also a more direct finish to YMC called the Big Pickle. Aug 20, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Yes, you go out to the flake. To clip the anchors, there is an excellent hidden bucket. May 31, 2009
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
Does the end of this route shoot off to the huge flake to the right and then back to the slopy jug just below the anchors? May 30, 2009