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Routes in Main Cliff
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After the Fox S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Attrosity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Big Pickle, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Big Rip, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Sunday T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Bobcat Junior T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a A0 |
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Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Broken Tooth T A2 |
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Captain Underpants T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Exodus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Exodus to the Promised Land S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Flight of the Falcon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Glueless S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Last Nailbender, The T A3 |
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Love Buzz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Main Cliff | 4677 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Midnight Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Minas Morgul S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Minas Tirith S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mithril S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Police and Thieves T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Razor Crack T C1 |
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Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Shadowline T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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She's Crafty S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Siddhartha S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Summer Teeth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Toothless Direct T A2 |
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Toothless Grin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 44.005, -71.2393 |
| FA: | Peter Beal, Kris Hansen |
| Page Views: | 1,177 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Freddie Wilkinson on May 20, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
An old line which has recently been cleaned and rediscovered by bored locals. Although the route bears some unfortunate glued and manufactured holds (hence the name), the movement is worthwhile, featuring powerful climbing between solid crimps.
Three bolts lead to a small slab under an overlap/roof feature, where a fourth bolt (recently replaced) with a piece of chain is found - formally the Charlatan anchor (12c to here). Move right following a thin horizontal (TCU placement) to reach the Dikenstein anchor.
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