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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Duncan McCallum, 1990
Page Views: 1,293 total, 13/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 13, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Pastryworks climbs a line of four bolts just left of the mega-classic Yellow Matter Custard. Begin by climbing past the first two bolts on Yellow Matter, and traverse left to the first bolt of Pastryworks.

To help with rope drag and to keep the rope from running over a sharp corner, it's important to leave only the second bolt of Yellow Matter clipped, albeit with a very long sling. In order to do this from the ground, I stick clip both a short draw and a super-long draw onto the second bolt of Yellow Matter. After I clip the first bolt on Pastryworks, I reach back and unclip the short draw, leaving the super-long draw clipped.

Upon reaching the first bolt of Pastryworks, expect to find sustained, old-school crimping. Despite the fact that the route looks thin from the ground, the moves between crimps are big and physical, requiring a surprising amount of power. The crimps keep coming, and the bolts are spread out enough to give you the sense that you are really on lead.

Pastryworks has been forgotten over the years. Maybe it's because it looks so blank and tweaky from the ground (it isn't). Maybe it's because the Webster guide makes some vague reference to it being chipped (it wasn't). Maybe people just don't like this kind of climbing anymore (I do).

The route has been refurbished with new anchors and pruned tree limbs. There's no reason not to get on it.

Location

Left of Yellow Matter Custard.

Protection

4 bolts, plus the first 2 bolts on Yellow Matter

Photos

DCSwish23
Maine/Spain
 
DCSwish23   Maine/Spain
 
I tried this for the first time yesterday, it's GREAT! The description is really good, although the tree could use a little more pruning again (it doesnt actually get in the way).

Beta Warning! I was really surprised by the climbing on the route, the hard moves are actually more because the feet are bad than because the hands are. Mostly big powerful moves between good crimps. A really great line with a cool crux.

There was NO chalk on it at all yesterday and a few of the feet are a bit dirty so I'd suggest bringing a brush, but it's so good! This thing needs some love! Go climb it!

One more note, there's a hold glued on after the crux (the only really good hold on the route) which has the glue peeling off. The hold didn't seem too fragile, but it would probably make it harder if it came off. I don't have any stuff around here to fix it (and I'm not really a local there). It seems like someone could pretty easily peel the old glue and put some new to keep the route as awesome as it currently is.

GO TRY IT! Sep 21, 2016
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
We were doing the 3rd ascent of Clean Sweep, so I kinda had to stay focused. Mar 17, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Pastryworks doesn't look like Dry Roasted at all. It really didn't look like it was chipped. Dry Roasted, on the other hand...you can see the chipped holds from Camber. Mar 17, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Dry roasted definitly looks altered, I rapped over it setting lines up to have a friend takes photos of anther friend on it. Mar 17, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Yup- the old - screwdriver behind the loose flakes trick. saw him do it. Mar 16, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
John, would you be referring to Dry Roasted? Mar 16, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
the chipping accusations were because of some of Duncan's "work" on Cathedral. Mar 16, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Thanks Peter. I agree with you, though before we did the pruning work, you couldn't really see the route from the ground. I think it has some of Sundown's best rock. Aug 20, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Great write-up Jay. I thought this route was one of the best 13s in New England. Aug 20, 2009