To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Yellow Matter Custard
5.13a,
Sport,
Avg: 3.8 from 9
votes
FA: Jason Stern, 1988
New Hampshire
> WM: Kancamagus…
> Sundown Ledge
> Main Cliff
Description
Yellow Matter Custard is yet another perfect sport route on Sundown's Main Cliff. While Yellow Matter Custard retains a reputation for fingery, sharp climbing, the route still requires more than just finger strength. All of those crimps lead to a pretty sizable pump, and the redpoint crux might be managing whatever fatigue you sustained on the lower, crimpy crux.
Start just left of the popular Romper Room, and climb up a series of stacked blocks. Pre-clipping the first bolt is a good idea. At the first bolt, the rock changes to the best Sundown has to offer: fine grained with crisp, good edges. From here, the climb follows a shallow groove with increasingly hard moves that culminate with a sequential crux. The crux ends with a big lock off to a perfect rail.
The climbing to the anchor, while definitely heroic in feel, keeps the send in question until the final moment. It amazes me that this climb was bolted and sent in the 1980's. Despite the lycra tights and the high-top boots, those guys knew a good sport route when they saw one.
Location
Just left of Romper Room, on the left side of its namesake Yellow Matter Buttress.
Protection
Bolts. The route was upgraded recently and all the bolts are new.
[Hide Photo] Mark on Yellow Matter Custard. 5.13a. www.bagleyheaybags.blogspot.com
[Hide Photo] Yellow Matter Custard fittingly follows the yellow line.
Denver-ish, CO
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
Boulder Colorado
There is also a more direct finish to YMC called the Big Pickle. Aug 20, 2009
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
Does The Big Pickle link YMC to Pastryworks? I've seen the lone bolt between those routes, but I don't really understand it. Aug 20, 2009
Boulder Colorado
Madison, NH
Ed Webster says the Big Pickle moves left from YMC into Pastryworks. May 9, 2011
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
Madison, NH
Anyway, check it out sometime. If you really don't like it can go away, and no one will be able to tell it was ever there. It also works better for Frigid relations. May 10, 2011
Climbmore, USA
About the previous comments for anchor (they are old, I know), but it all seemed good to me.
For anyone looking to get on this it gets pretty decent shade most of the day in the summer from trees and stays fairly dry on all the hard moves. Once you step a foot out right there's a streak that gets wet, but not much of an issue. Sep 21, 2016
Whitefield, NH
Also, does anyone have any good beta for right after bolt 5? Right where you climb out of the corner on the sharp flake . Did not use the right beta at all and could not figure out a better solution to get to those edges up and right from there. Thanks. May 1, 2019