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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Jerry Handren, 1992
Page Views: 1,413 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 27, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Banana Head climbs up the conspicuous yellow wall in the middle of Sundown's Main Cliff. This wall is unique for Sundown and looks more like a little piece of Rifle. It's steep and is covered with blocky holds and overhangs.

Banana Head climbs up the left side of the wall and ends at anchors a little more than halfway up. The first three bolts hold some very physical, full-body climbing. After this initial crux, the climbing eases a bit and culminates with a big lock off before the anchors. This is a great route, and is sure to work those big muscle groups, unlike some of Sundown's other harder routes, that mostly burn the fingers.

Though rated 13b in the Webster guide, many people think Banana Head is really hard for the grade. Therefore, I've added it as a slash grade.

Location

Left of The Big Rip.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

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I think I heard, or maybe read that Tim Kemple sent without the gym hold. Cheers,...d Aug 30, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I didn't think it was b/c, doing it to the anchor 2nd try back in 1997. The low boulder problem off the ledge is really the meat of the climb. However that's just an opinion.

I don't see why an extension wouldn't go somehow up there. The rock is pretty featured; it's the quality of it that's the problem. Aug 29, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
No, the bolt-on hold was removed a few years ago. I'm not sure if the extension goes without it. It might be possible.

Do you agree with my grade on this? Aug 28, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Nice addition Jay. Is the big bolt-on hold still in place? Aug 28, 2009