Type: Sport
FA: Jerry Handren, 1992
Page Views: 1,508 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 27, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Banana Head climbs up the conspicuous yellow wall in the middle of Sundown's Main Cliff. This wall is unique for Sundown and looks more like a little piece of Rifle. It's steep and is covered with blocky holds and overhangs.

Banana Head climbs up the left side of the wall and ends at anchors a little more than halfway up. The first three bolts hold some very physical, full-body climbing. After this initial crux, the climbing eases a bit and culminates with a big lock off before the anchors. This is a great route, and is sure to work those big muscle groups, unlike some of Sundown's other harder routes, that mostly burn the fingers.

Though rated 13b in the Webster guide, many people think Banana Head is really hard for the grade. Therefore, I've added it as a slash grade.


Left of The Big Rip.




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Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Nice addition Jay. Is the big bolt-on hold still in place? Aug 28, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
No, the bolt-on hold was removed a few years ago. I'm not sure if the extension goes without it. It might be possible.

Do you agree with my grade on this? Aug 28, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I didn't think it was b/c, doing it to the anchor 2nd try back in 1997. The low boulder problem off the ledge is really the meat of the climb. However that's just an opinion.

I don't see why an extension wouldn't go somehow up there. The rock is pretty featured; it's the quality of it that's the problem. Aug 29, 2009
I think I heard, or maybe read that Tim Kemple sent without the gym hold. Cheers,...d Aug 30, 2009