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Confederacy of Dunces
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.6 from 14
votes
Routes in Main Cliff
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After the Fox S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Attrosity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Big Pickle, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Big Rip, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Sunday T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Bobcat Junior T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a A0 |
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Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Broken Tooth T A2 |
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Captain Underpants T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Exodus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Exodus to the Promised Land S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Flight of the Falcon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Glueless S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Last Nailbender, The T A3 |
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Love Buzz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Main Cliff | 4677 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Midnight Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Minas Morgul S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Minas Tirith S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mithril S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Police and Thieves T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Razor Crack T C1 |
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Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Shadowline T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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She's Crafty S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Siddhartha S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Summer Teeth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Toothless Direct T A2 |
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Toothless Grin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 44.005, -71.2393 |
| FA: | Jerry Handren |
| Page Views: | 3,931 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | bayard russell jr on Aug 10, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Above the roof, Confederacy has a airey feel that most of Sundown's routes don't have. Great climbing.
The initial corner and roof make a great warm-up at abut 5.11a - just above the roof you can easily traverse left along a horizontal hand crack to the anchor on Mythras (It was first climbed to this point by Chris Gill and Andy Ross, and, according to Ed Webster's guidebook, was called "Tits out for the Lads".)
The crux of the route is above the roof, it's great climbing with big, clean fall potential. All the moves feel pretty good on their own, but it's hard to put it all together.
Photos
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