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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Andy Ross & Ken Reville
Page Views: 2,189 total, 18/month
Shared By: Jeremiah Johnson on Mar 8, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is the somewhat traversing line to the left of Eyeless in Gaza that makes use of the obvious sharp fin about midway up the wall. Although it doesn't see nearly the attention that Eyeless does, it's a really good route and a change of pace at Sundown, where relatively juggy climbs can be hard to come by.

Start up the same chimney as Eyeless, then traverse left, using the obvious shelf for your hands and some small feet. Pull an awkward mantel onto the shelf, then continue working up and left on good holds (clipping one of the anchors for the short route below and passing under the wedged, detached block - a little spooky - on the way) until the good holds run out. Move left into the short, dynamic crux using a powerful lock-off to cross and reach left into an undercling at the bottom of the fin, then slap into the fin to get established and jump for the top. (I've been told that originally the route went up on small edges to the right of the fin feature, but the bolts were moved after the better - and easier - sequence using the fin was found. Hence the discrepancy between this grade and the one in Webster's book). Anyway, once you're through it, shake out, and fight the pump on good holds to the anchor.

Location

To the left of Eyeless. Same start up the chimney, but only the first bolt is shared.

Protection

Bolts and a pin. A #1 Camalot or something comparable can be useful at the top if you're not happy with the runout to the anchor. Long runners are helpful on the first several bolts to minimize rope drag, and followers should be sure to flip their rope over the fin before starting into the crux.

Photos

Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.12a
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.12a
This is a good, if overlooked route. The start felt a bit sketchy, climbing past the knifeblade, though the climbing was pretty secure. The crux is fun, and the flake is nice and steep. Jun 7, 2008