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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Attrosity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Midnight Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Police and Thieves T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Summer Teeth T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toothless Grin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Ward Smith?
Page Views: 151 total · 45/month
Shared By: Eli . on Jul 12, 2018
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Climb an arete into a small corner onto  another face into the bottom of an intimidating looking overhanging corner. Use your stemming prowess to gain a usually damp jug for a quick shake before the crux section. From the jug use  blacks magic to reach a gigantic undercling with extremely poor feet. Lean right into a tips crack or if you have sausage fingers make a heroic huck to the finish.... Then whip while trying to clip the anchor and puke from exhaustion. 

Location

In the gigantic cave just to the right of vanishing point. It’s the big amazing looking corner.

Protection

3 bolts ( for og points place a small cam and skip the bolts, they were not in place on the FA). Small nuts and small cams will get you a bolted anchor.

Photos

Eli .
GMC3500
  5.12
Eli .   GMC3500
  5.12
More people should get on this one, it is very well protected and steep, has recently been cleaned, and I should be replacing the jingus tat anchor with chains this weekend. Jul 12, 2018

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