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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 637 total, 8/month
Shared By: CCliffe on Jul 26, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A great route not often done. The crack begins about 6 feet in the air and most people aid the beginning (A0 11d); it has gone free at 12a (by sum wikkid tall guy who did a 1 arm pull-up). Gain the crack and layback up to a small rest ledge. Traverse right and pull a tough move to gain the upper part of the climb (where you will find two pitons); you get a pretty good rest. then continue traversing right, on small feet and ok underclings in the crack (hope you don't have fat sausage fingers like I do). then zip up the dihedral to a cluster f*** anchor (pretty standard for the area - i always trust em). then lower yourself down to the roof and watch your second.

I think it is the fingery sister climb to the Bridge of Khazad-Dûm at Cathedral. It is a great climb that most people don't do - it just takes a little bit of work.

Not sure if the end of this one will stay dry in the rain.

Location

Start on the boulder under the right roof and to the left of Toothless Grin.

Protection

Small nuts, small cams, a 6 foot tall friend to place the gear in the bottom, and a smile

Photos

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john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
I think ANY one arm equals at least 12A ! Aug 28, 2013
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
So a one arm pull-up off a small jam equals 12a? Yeah right! Aug 28, 2013
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
I was belaying Russ the day he freed that opening move (1984/85?). Yes, he's pretty tall and mighty strong, but nonetheless, that tiny jam that he pulled up on (after a little jump as I remember) was breathtaking to behold. The rest of us got a boost to keep the opening moves at a more reasonable (and less tendon-shredding) grade. The rest of the pitch is no slouch, either, with quite the sting in the tail around the final roof. Glad to "have done it"...can just walk under it and smile, now. And yes, it should stay dry in the rain. Aug 27, 2013
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Great add ! Russ Clune did a one arm start (he's pretty tall,strong too.) But trust me you can do half a pull and then fire in the other hand.
Well geared with work, pumpy. Jul 26, 2011