Type: Trad, Aid, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Ben Maxfield, Solo. 2017
Page Views: 216 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ryan DeLena on Sep 6, 2022
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is essentially a direct start to Bobcat Junior/End of The Tether. It pulls through the wild horizontal roof on great gear, with a spicy start to keep it from being a gimmie. This all stays completely dry in the rain, so this and razor crack make a fun outing on a day of torrential downpour.

Start at the base of the roof. Stem between a boulder and the wall, and place a cliffhanger hook on a big crimp below a seem. Test it, then stand up to where you can get the first drilled bathook. This was hidden in some dust when I did it, so is you can’t it, look around. You don’t have to stand high for it. A second bat hook move gives way to a very thin seem. If you’re tall and very comfortable, you could probably stand up to the next bathook. I found success by nailing 2 very thin beaks in the seem, and equalizing them to help me get it.  Move through some fixed gear to a shiny, new rivet with a hanger on it.

Clip it with relief, then begin placing bomber cams out the roof, eventually you reach a fixed nut, marking the jump start of End of The Tether. Aid this, or aid up bolt to bolt on Bobcat Junior (less drag) to the anchor. 

Location Suggest change

Behind the boulder that you stand up on to start End of The Tether/Bobcat Junior. Look for the shiny rivet/hanger at the base of the roof crack.

Protection Suggest change

2 bat hooks, small beaks, cliff hanger hook, sky hook, cams to 0.75, nuts, draws, and some slings if you choose to equalize like I did.