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Routes in Main Cliff
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[Redacted] T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Attrosity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Big Pickle, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Big Rip, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Sunday T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Bobcat Junior T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a A0 |
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Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Broken Tooth T A2 |
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Captain Underpants T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Exodus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Exodus to the Promised Land S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Flight of the Falcon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Glueless S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Last Nailbender, The T A3 |
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Love Buzz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Midnight Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Minas Morgul S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Minas Tirith S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mithril S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Police and Thieves T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Razor Crack T C1 |
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Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Shadowline T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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She's Crafty S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Siddhartha S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Summer Teeth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Toothless Direct T A2 |
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Toothless Grin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Ben Maxfield, Solo. 2017 |
| Page Views: | 241 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan DeLena on Sep 6, 2022 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
This is essentially a direct start to Bobcat Junior/End of The Tether. It pulls through the wild horizontal roof on great gear, with a spicy start to keep it from being a gimmie. This all stays completely dry in the rain, so this and razor crack make a fun outing on a day of torrential downpour.
Start at the base of the roof. Stem between a boulder and the wall, and place a cliffhanger hook on a big crimp below a seem. Test it, then stand up to where you can get the first drilled bathook. This was hidden in some dust when I did it, so is you can’t it, look around. You don’t have to stand high for it. A second bat hook move gives way to a very thin seem. If you’re tall and very comfortable, you could probably stand up to the next bathook. I found success by nailing 2 very thin beaks in the seem, and equalizing them to help me get it. Move through some fixed gear to a shiny, new rivet with a hanger on it.
Clip it with relief, then begin placing bomber cams out the roof, eventually you reach a fixed nut, marking the jump start of End of The Tether. Aid this, or aid up bolt to bolt on Bobcat Junior (less drag) to the anchor.
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