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Flight of the Falcon
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in Main Cliff
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[Redacted] T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Attrosity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Big Rip, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Sunday T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Bobcat Junior T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a A0 |
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Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Broken Tooth T A2 |
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Captain Underpants T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Exodus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Exodus to the Promised Land S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Flight of the Falcon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Glueless S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Last Nailbender, The T A3 |
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Love Buzz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Midnight Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Minas Morgul S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Minas Tirith S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mithril S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Police and Thieves T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Razor Crack T C1 |
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Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Shadowline T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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She's Crafty S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Siddhartha S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Summer Teeth T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Toothless Direct T A2 |
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Toothless Grin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Ed Webster, Susan Patenaude, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 401 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Owen McAndrew on Aug 23, 2023 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
A fun and varied journey through the improbable-looking face above the left-end cave. Climb the start of vultures and break right after the crux. Make tricky moves past two pitons and plug some gear in an arching overlap. The third pin is sticking out a bit, so girth hitch a sling in between the eyehole and the rock, then make moves into the crack to the right. 2 options- I chose the low road, stepping down and using crimps. My partner went high, making a big move straight up to positive holds, then back right. Live your truth.
Climb the short crack until it peters out, where you will encounter some steep, but mostly positive face climbing. The anchor for Totally Savage will be about 5 feet to your right at this point and you'll encounter a pin and some small gear. Wander up until you reach a thin crack in a beautiful patina face and take this above the canopy to the top.
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