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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Bob Parrott
Page Views: 1,456 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Mar 29, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

There is a bolted line immediately left of Toothless Grin. This route starts on the first two bolts of Toothless Grin and heads left, following a horizontal crack above a big roof. Then the climb veers sharply up, and climbs past numerous bolts to an anchor above the upper roof system.

The climbing on this route is certainly unique, from the pumpy crack traverse, to the technical slab (we used a slab-dyno), to the big tenuous moves before the anchor. Though this route may not be considered classic by everyone, I am aware that there is a small, but somewhat askew, following.

Protection

Mostly bolts. Two pins. One Alien to back up the first pin.

Photos

Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Great. Thanks Tom. Aug 29, 2009
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
 
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
 
The climb is called "vanishing point"
Bob Parrott did the FA Aug 29, 2009
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
I can't remember what he called it, but I'm pretty sure it's a Bob Parrott route from the late 90's. 12+ sounds about right. Mar 30, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Does anyone have more info about this route? Mar 29, 2009