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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Ray Rice, 2008
Page Views: 2,497 total, 23/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Feb 28, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A new addition last year, The Big Rip is an adventurous journey up one of the more neglected sections of Sundown's main wall. This wall is home to Banana Head (and its extension, Big Banana, a notorious route that once sported a bolt-on gym hold). These routes climb up the left and steepest part of the wall, as The Big Rip skirts the major steepness by following a discontinuous right-angling crack system.

Expect funky, physical climbing for the entire length of the wall. While many of Sundown's routes suffer from flat-edge sameness, The Big Rip is a welcome change by offering tenuous laybacks, funky jugs, and surprisingly hard mantles.

Attention: While the route is mostly bolted, a #1 Camalot is necessary between the first and second bolts. About halfway up, .4 and .5 Camalots take the sting out of a runout.

Location

Right of Banana Head.

Protection

Bolts. Mid sized cams (.4 to 1 Camalot) are necessary.

Photos

very cool route. takes a variety of different techniques in bizarre but interesting movement to get to the chains, and they are tricky as hell to clip/ Oct 27, 2011
CCliffe
 
CCliffe  
 
sorta awkward and funky but a great intro to the 12 grade. great holds the whole way and good rests. overall i thought it wuz a great route. stays dry even after a week of rain, although the 'crux' hold wuz damp but still very doable May 18, 2011