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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Damboise, Bently, Pelletier
Page Views: 1,043 total, 13/month
Shared By: bayard russell jr on May 4, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

When there to replace the bolts we noticed an obvious direct start making the line independent of Romper Room; adding a quality bit of steep, undercling traversing to gain the original cruxy moves around a small roof. This new start does not make the route significantly harder, but removes a poorly placed bolt all together (and its ancient tat) and adds to the overall quality of the route; we added three closely spaced bolts safely protecting a ledge fall. We also replaced all of Frigid's original hardware. It is a great crimpy warm-up for the even crimpier YMC, and is a great way to get up there to hang the draws. It is a great route in its own right, and deserves to be added to a what is already a healthy 5.12 circuit at Sundown .

Variation: Instead of topping out on YMC traverse right into Romper Room, making for a longer, more sustained pitch.

The new start was bolted and first climbed into Frigid Relations by Bayard Russell and Freddie Wilkinson.

Location

The route is located on a small buttress, between the routes Yellow Matter Custard and Romper Room, approximately 75' right of Dikenstein (an obvious left angling orange/yellow dike which is the first, most visible route you see on the approach).

Start as for Romper Room, traversing left on the ledge below the difficulties.

Protection

Sport. The relatively easy upper flake shared by Yellow Matter and Frigid Relations was protected by a 1"-1 1/2" cam. This is commonly skipped, but a teriffic and potentailly dangerous whipper would result from blowing the top out on Frigid Relations (not so much of an issue on Yellow Matter).

Photos

Phil Schuld
Holderness, NH
 
Phil Schuld   Holderness, NH
 
This is an excellent route! In fact, I thought it was on par with its much more popular neighbor to the right (especially true if it cleans up a little more). Harder moves, but better rests make it a great compliment to the more sustained Romper Room. Sep 29, 2015
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Nice work guys! May 4, 2011
bayard russell jr
Madison, NH
 
bayard russell jr   Madison, NH
 
Freddie and I toproped a direct scramble up to the Frigid Relations/Romper Room ledge starting at the base of Yellow Matter. One bolt would make Frigid free of both routes. If you go try it out let me know if you think its worth adding. May 4, 2011