Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: september 1983, Steve Larson and Tricia Mattox
Page Views: 1,030 total · 20/month
Shared By: Gabriel Faucher on Sep 22, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

A really nice moderate crack climb with a lot of variety. Follow Stiletto for 45' to the start of the left traverse, but continue straight up the crack. Turn a bit right to finish in a hand jam crack to the top. Rappel down on the tree at the top of the cliff with an 80m rope or two ropes.

Location

same start as stiletto

Protection

double rack, an optional #4 BD 

Photos

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John Gassel
Somerville, MA
  5.9
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
  5.9
This is a really great route. Makes for a nice long warmup and would only get better with more traffic. It's a bit dirty up top but the movement on this is fun throughout.

Don't agree with the need for a #4 cam. You can protect this with a standard rack to #3. Take extra medium sized cams depending on your mileage for the grade, keeping in mind it's a pretty long route.

Careful for some rope squeezing cracks when pulling your ropes (you'll need 2 to rap it). There are a few constrictions right at the very top and another set of parallel crack down and to the left. So rap slightly right if possible to hopefully avoid issue. Jun 5, 2016
Tom Stryker  
 
I love this route! I never took a #4 and had no issue either, it pretty much will eat your whole rack perfectly. John is right, the rappel is a tough pull. Full value 5.9 Apr 8, 2018