Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Doug Madara & Choe Brooks April, 1981
Page Views: 1,777 total, 17/month
Shared By: matthew ritter on Apr 21, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This one will wake you up if 5.10a is your limit! I must quote the Ed Webster guidebook here for, it is my bible, and I enjoy the wording for its understated nature.
P1 "Climb on to a moderate slab, protect under a thin arch, then face climb (5.9+) up to a small, horizontal ledge six feet right of the actual dihedral. Clip a piton (with relief), step left, and stem up (5.10a) to good holds and a stance. Escape left around a small roof to a belay/rappel anchor."

The transition from the slab to the small ledge is protected below your feet on a slab as you pull onto a vertical face (kinda hairy).
Clipping the flexy piton feels good as you move into the fun dihedral.

the book describes two options for a second pitch, both of which are overgrown and need to be cleaned. I've never ventured higher, though to me it looks like worthwhile crack climbing.

This is an exceptionally fun pitch that is marred only by the condition of the 2nd pitch. I hope some cleaning will yield more fun to complete the Rough Boys experience.

Location

Around the corner from the Right Roof, and immediately right of Fat Girls with Acne

Protection

small cams and nuts. I found a .75 Camalot useful up top

Photos

matthew ritter
West Campton, New Hampshire
 
matthew ritter   West Campton, New Hampshire
 
I just climbed this again and thought I'd offer my unsolicited beta. climb the flake. Step left and ignore that upwardly driven angle at the base of the corner. It will fail you. Instead place a kinda flared but ok hand sized piece and a small finger sized cam in the same spot. Bomber! Clip one of your ropes to them. Step back right and grab the jug ledge. Make a committing feeling reach to another great hold. This flat jug will accept a funky but pretty good micro wire. clip your other rope to this piece. Delicately step left to a good one pad gaston/sidepull, take a moment to find the good stem, and look at the left arĂȘte. There is a small jug that takes a slung piece of dyneema pretty well, I can't guarantee it's bomber but it sure seemed it to me, it would definitely hold your weight if you get too scared to climb, get another small finger sized piece ready for the somewhat sketchy block before the welcome rest ledge, it's not so bad...the rest of P 1 it is exceptionally well protected and fun! Jerry recommends double ropes. Not too popular these days but just throw a half rope in your kit and you'll be waaay more psyched to fall of this route without the feeling that your gonna snag your feet on the rope and flip upside down (you will) . You'll also appreciate the other rope as you start climbing the 5.10 crack on P2 after traversing 40feet! Plus if you continue around the corner to the Lookout Wall, two ropes make the rappelling more enjoyable. 5.10 climbers SHOULD get on this route it simply helps if you are a 5.10 climber and a 5.11 gear tinkerer. I didn't look too closely but it seems like the old piton could be replaced by a bugaboo...Absolutely a route not to be missed, you could always defy the laws of trad climbing and rap in after climbing Bon Temps Rouler another unbearably good trad route at 5.8+ 5.9 G crack deliciousness Apr 30, 2017
Joe Mucci
Chattanooga, TN
Joe Mucci   Chattanooga, TN
Looking back in retrospect, I should have said something sooner. My bad. Just kinda wanted to forget this one yah know? Not sure how much damage was done to the flake but from the ground it looked mostly gone. Maybe someone with some talent and a knack for these things would like to assess the condition. It's was my worst fall in twenty years of climbing (though I admit I'm quite conservative on the risk taking scale). With that said if theres no place to get gear in there i would vote to change it to an R-rating. Aug 19, 2016
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Yikes !! looks like one of Doug's originals.....prolly should get a bolt now because it's a quality route Aug 18, 2016
Joe Mucci
Chattanooga, TN
Joe Mucci   Chattanooga, TN
This pin? Yes, it was mank...in truth though it was the flake that failed on the fall. The flake exploded and the pin popped right out. I was stemming out a few moves above the pin, in the corner, hanging onto a block and my left foot slipped on the left facing wall of the corner. It was humid and I think the lichen was slippery. Next thing I remember I was falling, bounced of the wall and landed down hill from my belayer, 5 feet off the ground. A big fixed angle caught me. With the flake gone I'm not sure how the route has changed. I can tell you this though, with the pin gone I'd hate to take that fall again.

Aug 18, 2016
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Not surprised that pin was mank. Hope that a placement was left behind---wouldn't want to do those moves with nuthin. Sep 29, 2015
Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
Was at Sundown this June hanging out at the base of Eyeless when I heard a kerfuffle from up around Rough Boys - jangling gear, the unmistakeable thump of body on rock. This dude had taken a short fall on the pin on the first pitch and it pulled. He took a good whipper and got bounced around some but was totally fine. Afterward he showed us the pin, a bugaboo IIRC - it was all rusted and manky, had lost a lot of metal to corrosion. Excellent reminder about trusting pins in New England (i.e. don't). Anyway, I don't know if a placement was left behind. Oct 20, 2014
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Very fun climb with great variety on both pitches. As of this posting, there is an anchor atop pitch 1 comprised of a few fixed nuts and rappel rings, in good condition. The second pitch is definitely worth doing though, so bring some small cams and nuts and go for it! A 60m will get you back to the ground (without any extra, so tie some knots) from the tree anchor on the ledge atop pitch 2. Jul 26, 2012
charlesg3 Gruenwald
Cambridge, MA
 
charlesg3 Gruenwald   Cambridge, MA
 
Great climbing through the corner. The pin is in a pretty poor location though.

Also, there is a second pitch that traverses right about 40 feet to a crack that goes to the top. Also great climbing, although it is a bit dirty. Jul 23, 2012
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
Jerry Handren recently cleaned the crack to the far right and it is good to go. Real nice route...if you like your heart in your throat! :) Sep 19, 2011
matthew ritter
West Campton, New Hampshire
 
matthew ritter   West Campton, New Hampshire
 
the gear is good, the falls would suck Nov 21, 2009
this route protects really well, the flake before the corner system takes lots of micro nuts, if you want it you can protect it well. Sep 22, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.10-
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.10-
pg-pg-13
it protects fine, you just don't want to blow the moves on the first wire. Great route, even though dirty the second pitch isn't bad. Apr 22, 2009
Chad Laflamme
North Conway, NH
 
Chad Laflamme   North Conway, NH
 
I would say possibly a Pg-13. Apr 21, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Would this be a candidate for a PG13 or an R rating? Apr 21, 2009