Avg: 2.7 from 12 votes
Routes in Main Cliff
|Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Razor Crack T C1|
|Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|FA:||Doug Madara & Choe Brooks April, 1981|
|Page Views:||1,777 total, 17/month|
|Shared By:||matthew ritter on Apr 21, 2009|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThis one will wake you up if 5.10a is your limit! I must quote the Ed Webster guidebook here for, it is my bible, and I enjoy the wording for its understated nature.
P1 "Climb on to a moderate slab, protect under a thin arch, then face climb (5.9+) up to a small, horizontal ledge six feet right of the actual dihedral. Clip a piton (with relief), step left, and stem up (5.10a) to good holds and a stance. Escape left around a small roof to a belay/rappel anchor."
The transition from the slab to the small ledge is protected below your feet on a slab as you pull onto a vertical face (kinda hairy).
Clipping the flexy piton feels good as you move into the fun dihedral.
the book describes two options for a second pitch, both of which are overgrown and need to be cleaned. I've never ventured higher, though to me it looks like worthwhile crack climbing.
This is an exceptionally fun pitch that is marred only by the condition of the 2nd pitch. I hope some cleaning will yield more fun to complete the Rough Boys experience.