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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Aid: High and Dry (A3). FFA (renamed Sewer Rat) by Dave Sharratt
Page Views: 1,658 total, 16/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Apr 27, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Aid Description

Free climb or hooks off the ground treding right into a right facing corner. A couple of tricky moves moves and a huge gut busting reach to a suspect pin gets you into the roof proper. Easy aid gets you to bolted anchors under the roof. A second pitch is easily possible.

Free Description

The corner up into the roof is sporty to say the least. There was a fixed nut halfway up the corner, which feels like insecure 5.10, and then the sequence getting into the roof proper entails a very hard boulder problem with two poor knifeblades for pro. The climbing out the roof looked gut-wrenching, not to mention that rope drag gets horrible when you pull onto the face; I think that [Dave] used two ropes and unclipped from one at the lip of the roof. --Jeremiah Johnson

Location

Starts in the middle corner of the left roof or about 15 feet to the right of The Argonaut.

Photos

- No Photos -
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
I'm with Jeremy, I'd love to hear the first hand account.

I know the KB placements that you mentioned Jeremy, I cannot imagine free climbing above these, they shifted as I reached up to the roof.

So whats left at sundown, the two roof cracks to the left of toothless grin (a3, a4), razor crack (c1) (this will go), I know there is an umcompleted line that traverses the left hand margine of the right roof (a4)

Band M has some unsent winners as well, I know that some have seen TR attempts. What's next! Mar 1, 2010
Jeremiah Johnson
Contoocook, NH
Jeremiah Johnson   Contoocook, NH
Looks good to me; maybe it'll motivate someone to go out and try that roof and they can give a first-hand description of that section. It looked just brutally hard. Mar 1, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Hey Jeremy and nhclimber. I have integrated the two (free and aid) descriptions into the route posting. What do you think? Feb 28, 2010
Jeremiah Johnson
Contoocook, NH
Jeremiah Johnson   Contoocook, NH
I don't think Dave added any gear; I belayed him a few times when he was working this and I tried the the first part of the route on toprope a few times, and the corner up into the roof is sporty to say the least. There was a fixed nut halfway up the corner, which feels like insecure 5.10, and then the sequence getting into the roof proper entails a very hard boulder problem with two poor knifeblades for pro. The climbing out the roof looked gut-wrenching, not to mention that rope drag gets horrible when you pull onto the face; I think that he used two ropes and unclipped from one at the lip of the roof. Feb 28, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
That's incredible, when did it go? Pictures? Did you get to see it go down, all the aid routes are slowly drying up :-( But it's great to see them have new life breathed into them. I remember the gear being, umm, aid like. Was any new fixed gear added? The moves into and traversing out of the roof must have been amazing! Isn't that anchor in a weird spot. Sep 19, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
It's probably best not to nail this route, as it has gone free. Sep 18, 2009