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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Steve Damboise and Jerry Handren 1991
Page Views: 2,149 total, 20/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Feb 28, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Mithras is the nice-looking line of bolts just right of Eyeless in Gaza. While Eyeless offers pumpy, sustained climbing, Mithras is much more powerful and bouldery.

After a sketchy bit of 5.8ish climbing to the first bolt, the crux comes at bolts two and three, and yields to a smart sequence. Climbers who attempt to thug the move may end up disappointed. Eventually, before bolt four, you climb more or less up the arete, maybe sneaking right for a rest or leaning left for a clip. A final, aesthetic boulder problem on the left face guards the chains.

Mithras is among the best sport routes at Sundown, and a worthy tick for those who have already done Eyeless or for those who are sick of falling right before Eyeless's anchors.

Location

Immediately to the right of Eyeless.

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
  5.12d
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
  5.12d
I know Handren calls it 12c and so do Joe T and Bayard, so I'm going to feel like a pansy for saying this, but it's all of 12d. It's no easier than Aquarius, which is a good comparison because both routes break down into two boulder problems separated by a near no-hands. Feb 17, 2016
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I'm going to climb you. Jan 1, 2014
Lanky
Tired
 
Lanky   Tired
 
I used it when I tried this rig. It's right there, so avoiding it felt contrived. Mar 28, 2011
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
I tried this route a few years back. Is the no-hands rest to the right of the arete considered on-route? Mar 27, 2011