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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Attrosity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Midnight Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Police and Thieves T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Summer Teeth T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toothless Grin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Sport
FA: Steve Damboise and Jerry Handren 1991
Page Views: 2,348 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Feb 28, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Mithras is the nice-looking line of bolts just right of Eyeless in Gaza. While Eyeless offers pumpy, sustained climbing, Mithras is much more powerful and bouldery.

After a sketchy bit of 5.8ish climbing to the first bolt, the crux comes at bolts two and three, and yields to a smart sequence. Climbers who attempt to thug the move may end up disappointed. Eventually, before bolt four, you climb more or less up the arete, maybe sneaking right for a rest or leaning left for a clip. A final, aesthetic boulder problem on the left face guards the chains.

Mithras is among the best sport routes at Sundown, and a worthy tick for those who have already done Eyeless or for those who are sick of falling right before Eyeless's anchors.

Location

Immediately to the right of Eyeless.

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
I tried this route a few years back. Is the no-hands rest to the right of the arete considered on-route? Mar 27, 2011
Lanky
Tired
 
Lanky   Tired
 
I used it when I tried this rig. It's right there, so avoiding it felt contrived. Mar 28, 2011
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
I'm going to climb you. Jan 1, 2014
Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
  5.12d
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
  5.12d
I know Handren calls it 12c and so do Joe T and Bayard, so I'm going to feel like a pansy for saying this, but it's all of 12d. It's no easier than Aquarius, which is a good comparison because both routes break down into two boulder problems separated by a near no-hands. Feb 17, 2016
irujo
  5.12c/d
irujo  
  5.12c/d
Really liked this route! No idea why the book only gave it one star Sep 25, 2018

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