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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Brad White & Ian Cruickshank June, 1993
Page Views: 2,205 total · 18/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Feb 27, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Agent Orange is a test of both slab wizardry and jamming prowess.

Start up a flake/block and climb to a comfortable stance below the black slab. Delicately move up the face trending right past 3 bolts and the first crux, then veer left, climbing past another bolt and the second crux. Rest, then tackle the pumpy, right-angling, gear-protected corner to a double bolt anchor.

Note: This route gets a lot of mid- to late morning sun.

Location

About midway down the cliff from the left at a large right-facing corner with a block/flake at its base. About 200 feet to the left of the Vultures Wall.

Protection

10 draws, and singles from .5 to a #2 Camalot. A single 60m rope gets you down.

Photos

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Lisa Boldini  
 
Did this yesterday and thought it was a great route! The horizontal crack between bolts 1 and 2 takes a bomber alien to keep you off the ledge. I thought the face/slab climbing was the hardest part, then a fun boulder problem and crack/layback to the top. The "bolt" protecting the boulder problem is scary, but I got two so-so cams in to back it up. Just watch out for the spider dens on the top section.. so many spiders. Aug 24, 2015
This is a great pitch, however the cold shut on the bolt protecting the upper boulder problem is total junk. The weld is entirely broken through. It's possible to back it up with some so-so gear (small cams IIRC) a bit down and right of the shut. While this wouldn't keep you from bouncing the slab if the cold shut blew, it just might stop a pretty big and ugly tumble. The steep hanging corner at the top is a blast. Aug 4, 2015
wonderwoman
  5.11b
wonderwoman  
  5.11b
You can protect the move below the second bolt with an orange metolius or yellow mastercam. There is a crack that fits either / both of these perfectly. I fell going for the bolt and appreciated having a piece there to keep me from going splat on the ledge. I still need to finish this climb, though. Jul 15, 2013
JChepes
West Ossipee, NH
JChepes   West Ossipee, NH
Also note that cold shut before trad section is spinning and the weld did not look good. Sep 10, 2012
it should be noted that it is wise to stick clip the second bolt, if you botched the clip you would hit the block just off the ground. the slab crux is very tricky and barely there, the upper crux more of a V2+ boulder problem with a pumpy corner to finish. excellent route. Oct 27, 2011
bayard russell jr
Madison, NH
bayard russell jr   Madison, NH
New chain anchors here, no more ratty ol' tat. May 4, 2011