Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 65 ft (20 m)|
|Page Views:||454 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Feb 12, 2015|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
As for MOOMH, you will start off in the right-facing corner and head on up moderate terrain on so-so (at best) gear to get established in the corner. Easy moves cruise up to the bulge and into a right-traversing crack and flake. Place good gear and head out to the right on the traverse for 2 moves.
A left-leaning undercling flake now appears above you.
Place gear here from a good stance, and place whatever you can (smoke em' if you got 'em) before heading up and back left into the flake for a somewhat sustained crux of 5.9- climbing. There are more opportunities on that flake for gear, but it is suspect. The holds all felt good to climb on but suspect for holding gear.
Go through a very interesting and fun crux and up onto the left hand side of the rib of rock, just right of the left side arete, eventually climbing lower angle rock on the face to the top.
A very long cordalette was key to getting a solid and easy belay anchor, as for MOOMH.
The first of those ribs holds a splitter thin hands crack that pops through a roof up high. That is Prime Time Climb.
The second rib holds the routes Mountains Out of Molehills and Molehill Direct. These both start in the right-facing corner and part ways about 10 meters up where a horizontal crack and flake splits out to the right for a hand traverse.
Molehill Direct takes the first moves of that hand traverse before splitting up and right through the bulge on the obvious left-leaning flake and then follows the left hand arete to the top of the rib of rock.