Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Wayne Crill and Eric Johnson, 2013
Page Views: 420 total · 5/month
Shared By: Wayne Crill on Apr 22, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details
Access Issue: Turkey Vulture nesting closure 7/3/20! Details

Description

The climbing is big fun, and in my opinion this would easily be a three star PG-13 route if the detached flake were 100% solid. It's not going anywhere, but I wouldn’t trust it for gear. To me, this makes it a little more serious than PG-13 and not quite worth three stars. Like Lemmy said, "...you know I'm born to lose, and gambling's for fools, but that's the way I like it baby, I don't want to live forever...."

Begin up technical face to the right of the tree starting Stay Hungry. A 5.10 move or two off the ground leads to fun, unprotected 5.8 slab for 25’ to the right-angling system that provides finger-sized gear and the broken band below the roof. From a stance at the band, find very good Loweball protection in a pod/slot to begin climbing out the overhanging dihedral. Climb crimpers to steep jugs and up a detached flake to an open hand jug (#3 Camalot) and up to a stance above the blocks and below a delicate dihedral with a small crack. Intricate slot/arête/face climbing takes you to the top. It feels Jalapeño spicy, but it could be more like Habanero?

Location

This route climbs the overhanging, right-facing dihedral just left of Anthurium and to the right of Stay Hungry, topping out just light of the Anthurium anchors to a ledge.

Protection

Gear: Standard Eldo rack including #1 and #2 Loweballs, micronuts.

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