Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Wayne Crill and Eric Johnson, 2013
Page Views: 156 total · 2/month
Shared By: Wayne Crill on Apr 22, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The climbing is big fun, and in my opinion this would easily be a three star PG-13 route if the detached flake were 100% solid. It's not going anywhere, but I wouldn’t trust it for gear. To me, this makes it a little more serious than PG-13 and not quite worth three stars. Like Lemmy said, "...you know I'm born to lose, and gambling's for fools, but that's the way I like it baby, I don't want to live forever...."

Begin up technical face to the right of the tree starting Stay Hungry. A 5.10 move or two off the ground leads to fun, unprotected 5.8 slab for 25’ to the right-angling system that provides finger-sized gear and the broken band below the roof. From a stance at the band, find very good Loweball protection in a pod/slot to begin climbing out the overhanging dihedral. Climb crimpers to steep jugs and up a detached flake to an open hand jug (#3 Camalot) and up to a stance above the blocks and below a delicate dihedral with a small crack. Intricate slot/arête/face climbing takes you to the top. It feels Jalapeño spicy, but it could be more like Habanero?

Location

This route climbs the overhanging, right-facing dihedral just left of Anthurium and to the right of Stay Hungry, topping out just light of the Anthurium anchors to a ledge.

Protection

Gear: Standard Eldo rack including #1 and #2 Loweballs, micronuts.

Photos

gregsmiller
Louisville
gregsmiller   Louisville
Nice work, Wayne! I looked at this a couple of years ago but never went back for the lead! Way to get after it on another, obvious, unclimbed line in Eldo!!
greg miller Apr 23, 2013
Steve Annecone
boulder
Steve Annecone   boulder
Nice send, Wayne! And nice photos by Cory. Apr 23, 2013
kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
I remember you showing me that last winter. Way to go. Apr 24, 2013
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.11-
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.11-
I was up at Peanuts the other day and found out that there is already an Eldo route named 'Ace of Spades' up there (doh!). So I had to rename this rig, so there you go. May 16, 2013