Yellow Brick Road
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 509 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Jan 31, 2021 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
Description
Yellow Brick Road is a poor climb with little redeem, let alone would I recommend it. Having just done this route and finding it undesirable, I was curious to see what was said about it here on MP.com, but when I came on line to read what had been said, I was initially surprised to find nothing. Having first written up routes on M.P. on Hawk Eagle about 20 years ago, I was expecting that someone would have written this one up by now. Then it dawned on me, but for me, everyone has had the sense not to climb this thing once they looked up at it. Levin calls it a "junky pitch," but I feel that is an understatement. If the loose or poor rock was insufficient to deserve a worse description, the thorny bushes growing out of the crack for 3/4 the length of this climb certainly earn this thing a mention in the 'worst of Eldo' list. As a lifetime choss jockey and obscure tour denizen, I feel fairly uniquely qualified to bestow that honor, and I hereby do so. There, I hope I have been clear.
If you still want to climb this thing, head left just past Self Abuse and up onto the flat shelf at the base, just left of that route. Take a minute, and inspect down and to your right the climbs January Rush, January Playmate, and Self Abuse. Those are good routes that deserve your attention, & it is not too late to go climb them instead.
No? OK, now just above those lies this left-facing corner with loose rock and thorny bushes along its length. Work your way up and right for 50' or so to a fixed anchor, and belay. Rap off of the fixed stoppers and cord, cleaning your gear on the way down. Or worse, yet, belay your partner up, obligating them to suffer the route as well.
Rap off from the fixed anchor, 50' or so to the ground.
Location
This is just left of Self Abuse in a left-facing corner with a small crack full of raspberry bushes. This ends on a ledge just left of the top of Self Abuse at a cord in 3 fixed stoppers.
0 Comments