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Routes in Hawk-Eagle Ridge

ATC T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anthurium S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Body Lice TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bold Finger T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bowling Alley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brother Jug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cinch Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Comeback Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crab, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cracker Jack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Dead Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Devo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Die Heeda Rule T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Emergency Brake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grim Reaper T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Grubble Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hangman, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Heart of Gold S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heva TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Hooker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hopscotch T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
I've Been Sick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Inflorescence S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
January Playmate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
January Rush T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Larch, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last of a Dying Breed T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Leapfrog T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lips Like Sugar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Low Profile TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Molehill Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Mountains Out of Molehills T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Nails to Nowhere T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nobody's Home T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pepe le Peu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Peter's Out T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peters Out - Roof Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plinth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Prime Time Climb T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Resisting Arete T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Roof's Way T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rupee Dog Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rush Buick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Russian Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Self Abuse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shallow Grave T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Short One T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Siberian Khatru T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Skip 'n' Go Naked T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Slide, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c PG13
Squeamish, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Stay Hungry T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Stop! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stranglehold T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tekneek T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tombstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Uninspiring Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
W T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walk About T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Werner Brothers' Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
You'll Poke Your Eye Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Woodruff & Hare, 1976
Page Views: 452 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The route is just down below the area favorites Tombstone, Die Heeda Rule, and Brother Jug. Locate Tombstone, then head slightly back down the hill (20 feet) to see this clean, diamond-shaped face just around the first arete to the right. Climb up and right, on a line of least resistance, then left to the center of the face and then up and left to a sloping ramp. Pull onto the ramp and make some moves to a vertical face then to the right and up a corner. There was a bolt somewhere on the route, but it didn't help much with the nerves.

The route will go "direct." I next TR'd it by starting up and left from the ground directly to the center of the diamond-shaped face, then straight up through the ramp and directly to the top. This was hard 5.11 and very insecure. I would NOT lead this variation.

Protection

This is S/VS. The route is probably more enjoyable ar a Toprope. Very little pro is available, so you can take it all and just stare at it most of the time- or TR.

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Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.10b R
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.10b R
I thought this was a very good route, up an aesthetic face. The face climbing above the last gear on the ramp felt bold and intimidating, but not hard. After initiating the left angling 'traverse' it eases off to the bolt. Initiating the traverse felt like intricate 5.9 and A fall up here could be very bad, seemd R/X worthy, at least compared to others in Eldo. Climbing straight up above the bolt is the crux,some kind of committing .10. Habanero spicy on the pepper scale. Really fun climbing on mostly good rock. Well worth doing, recommended! Jan 21, 2013
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
This is a really scary climb. We spent most of today failing on it, but it was the place to be. No wind! We ended up toproping it. Tony's description seems overly complicated. Climb the right leaning, left facing corner until it runs out (as does the gear). Be careful your gear doesn't lift out as you climb the bulges in the corner. Continue about 6' higher on positive holds, then straight left to the bolt. If you fall off on the traverse you'll likely hit the left facing corner and/or ledges below. The bolt is useful for the straight up finish, but a bit silly if you're escaping right via the original route, since that's only about 5.7. Red Alien a bit higher. Lots of small wires and small cams before t he crux traverse. We had a funky sideways brass and blue Ballnut, both with Screamers, a bit higher and left of the top of the corner. They both survived a bounce test and held a small fall downclimbing, but it wasn't apparent what they were sticking on. The jug above, at the start of the traverse, creaks--be careful. Mar 6, 2004
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
This climb is on a beautiful striking face. It is much harder than it looks from the ground. The runout section is 10a or so. You can set up a TR approaching from W (or Dubya) to the right or [Bowling Alley] to the left (advised). Oct 3, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Just in case you don't know or don't heed the warning: There is no pro from the beginning of the traverse leftward until the only bolt. 5.9s may be quite a sandbag. This traverse felt like the crux without the direct finish and 10 b/c seems a bit conservative. Sep 25, 2002
This is a pretty fun route. The runout is only 5.9s and is straitforward with good holds. Once the bolt is clipped it is safe face climbing strait up and is about 10b and really fun moves. Going right at the bolt only misses the fun part of the route. May 15, 2002