Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 207 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is your essential 1-move wonder, and rated like a gym climb for that move.

In the vicinity of Die Heeda Rule and Tombstone, this jug-fest lies waiting the eager 5.10 climber of any sort, Gym-rat, sport-boy, or crusted trad. The gear is straightforward, and the holds inspire confidence. Get ready to heel hook, heel-toe cam, and go for the big holds.

This route begins as for Die Heeda Rule, but at the top of the big flake, moves up and right onto the "jug-fest" face rather than left into the dihedral.

Protection

Standard rack.

Location

Follow the directions to Die Heeda Rule.

Photos

Josh Janes    
 
Seemed like a one-move wonder followed by some silly climbing above. Sep 21, 2002
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
This is 5.8 tops if you can reach the hold. There are many Gunks 8s (land of roofs) much harder than this. I think the ceiling on P1 of Touch and Go is harder than this. Plus, it's essentially top roped with gear high on Die Heeda Rule (fixed nut as of today). The climbing above is pleasant (not silly as Josh says), with a bit of a move over a bulge and some runouts on easy knobs. Mar 6, 2004
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.9
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.9
Not sure why people are being so hard on this one. Tons of fun, I thought. No, not a 10, as it was originally rated, but interesting and a nice "might as well since we're here" route.
One note--the slings on the juniper were missing as of 4/11, so I created a rap station on the large tree just down ridge above The Bowling Alley. Apr 18, 2011
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.9
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.9
Updated anchor for this route. Could still use a second aluminum ring, though. Jan 19, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
There is a rap ring and a quicklink now at the anchor. The “jug move” is not the crux, moving up to it is. Sep 21, 2018