Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Cory Fleagle & Stanislav Zinkov ?? (Jan. 2013)|
|Page Views:||1,001 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Cor on Mar 26, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
It has good, spicy arete climbing with some fun, wild walking left above the roof edge at the top. Good exposure.
Walk to H.E.R. like usual, but continue up draw, like where you would be descending from the Wind Tower/Wind Ridge. After going past the turn off for H.E.R., look for a short slab on your left to scramble up. Gain the ledge, and walk across to the start, which is where the ledge ends (actually pinches off..).
This is to the left of Bikini in the Levin Eldo book.
Start up arete by branching in from the right, getting some protection. Gain the arete out left, and punch it up to the roof area. Get more gear, and head left wild walking along the roof top edge of Lips Like Sugar. End/lower from L.L.S.'s bolted anchors above the roof.