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Routes in Hawk-Eagle Ridge

ATC T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anthurium S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Body Lice TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bold Finger T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bowling Alley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brother Jug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cinch Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Comeback Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crab, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cracker Jack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Dead Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Devo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Die Heeda Rule T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Emergency Brake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grim Reaper T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Grubble Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hangman, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Heart of Gold S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heva TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Hooker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hopscotch T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
I've Been Sick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Inflorescence S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
January Playmate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
January Rush T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Larch, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last of a Dying Breed T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Leapfrog T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lips Like Sugar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Low Profile TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Molehill Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Mountains Out of Molehills T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Nails to Nowhere T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nobody's Home T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pepe le Peu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Peter's Out T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peters Out - Roof Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plinth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Prime Time Climb T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Resisting Arete T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Roof's Way T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rupee Dog Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rush Buick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Russian Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Self Abuse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shallow Grave T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Short One T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Siberian Khatru T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Skip 'n' Go Naked T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Slide, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c PG13
Squeamish, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Stay Hungry T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Stop! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stranglehold T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tekneek T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tombstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Uninspiring Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
W T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walk About T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Werner Brothers' Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
You'll Poke Your Eye Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: (?) T. Bubb and J. Meir, May 29, 2011?
Page Views: 569 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 31, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This unlikely climb is in a unique position and has plenty of thought-provoking qualities. The climbing movement and the gear both require consideration along the length of the climb, but both are very manageable for a climber of experience. This route could be trouble, however, for a less experienced trad leader. My partner and I were both very happy to have done this climb, finding it interesting and rewarding.

The climb as described here is undocumented. We thought maybe we were doing Workingman's Dead, but after discussing that with the FA party of that route, we now understand that what was a Left hand branch of 'Dead On Arrival' that crosses an alternate finish of Those Fertile Years which was not documented in the Levine Book, then extends into some undocumented territory. As for when this may have been first done, we are not 100% sure, as the area has multiple features which might be confused for each other.

While the ascent we did stays in the lowest roof system of the buttress and crossed the route Those Fertile Years. Clarification is still underway and a picture will eventually be posted.

Location

This climb starts on the D.O.A. buttress, just off of the trail on Hawk Eagle Ridge. The climb starts by surmounting a 10' tower of rock against the base which forms a shallow, left-facing corner and has a rounded top (mantle up). Climb up and left into a low angle corner which ends just below a left-angling roof. Place solid gear and cut out left under that roof, as some point clipping a very nasty fixed pin (as for D.O.A.) and a very small fixed stopper (other gear is nearby). Continue the rising, leftward traverse under that roof (the lowest of three) crossing the climb 'Those Fertile Years' and then passing the old bolted anchor of Cinch Crack, below you. Gear is largely available here, but with wisdom comes caution- note not to place it into the 2 large, hanging flakes overhead and over-rope in the traverse as they are not that bomber. At some point, there is a crack piercing the roof overhead that takes a great #2 Camalot at the lip, which is great protection for some upcoming moves. Reach the end of this rising traverse and look up over a bulge into an obtuse, right-facing corner. Pull up onto the face above the bulge (stimulating) and head up that right-leaning corner to the top of the buttress. Belay off of gear or the large tree.

To descend, walk North and then Northwest about 100 meters to the second left-facing dihedral uphill from DOA to reach a 5.3 downclimb.

Protection

A standard rack of stoppers and cams. LOTS of long slings keep the zig-zag nature of the climb from creating rope drag.

Photos

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