Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tanner Bauer & Chris Deuto
Page Views: 163 total · 91/month
Shared By: Chris Deuto on May 1, 2019
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Time Under Tension offers fantastic movement in an interesting roof, requiring very committing moves with zero room for error. Start by climbing up the dirty and slabby open book as for The Crab (poorly protected by an Alien) until reaching a scary, huge block that appears to be loose, although surprisingly solid. Place a piece on top of this block, then fire into the 20 foot roof, with a crux in the beginning and fairly sustained movement to a terrifying move to a huge hueco above the lip. Mantel over, then traverse left until you can place a #3 Camalot in the flake system-35 feet above your last placement. Tread lightly to anchors around a tree. It is easy enough to hang a TR from the sling on the tree, and it is recommended as holds are hard to find.

Location

In between The Crab and Stranglehold, there is an obvious overhang with a prow on top. It is also just up and left from Cinch Crack.

Protection

1 Alien for the start, 1 #1 Cam for the block, although falling in it could be catastrophic, and 1 #3 to protect the last bit, but it’s mainly for psychological purposes.

Photos