Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: [Jim Ericson & Paul Sibley, 1970]
Page Views: 423 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Find Hawk Eagle Ridge by following the directions under the 'Rock' category. Walk up past the initial buttress, passing DOA and Cinch Crack. The rock becomes short and [non-descript] for a hundred yards or so, before returning to a single-pitch height of more vertical stone up the hill.

As you reach this tall area, you will see a series of 2 diamond shaped [south] faces that form right-facing dihedrals. After passing the second of these, you will be under and a massive overhang, where the trail runs parallel to a large, fallen, [rotten] tree.

Looking up from this point into the massive overhang/roof you will see a hand-to-fist splitter crack which runs through it, opening to a bomb-bay slot at the top. This is Tombstone, a reference point for the other area climbs.

The climb goes quickly from a gymnastically overhanging handcrack to a weird off-squeeze for a few moves. After that, it is a treat for anyone, big holds, big moves, and reasonable gear. The crux can be done from a nearly up-side-down position.

Protection

A double set of Camalots or cams to 3.5" will do. Leg shake might be reduced by a #4 Camalot.

Photos

Actually, while you do climb into an overhanging slot, you never have to use any wide crack technique to climb this route. It is really short and quite fun. I recommend bringing a #4 or even a #4.5 Camalot. You only need single units for this route and about 5 placements will protect it nicely. Sep 13, 2001
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
  5.11a
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
  5.11a
Not bad climbing, it's just so short. Maybe 30'? Poison Ivy abounds. May 21, 2004
Rope eater. May 9, 2005
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
Once you turn the lip and head for the tree anchor, make sure to flip your rope out of the crack, otherwise it will jam up really badly. Jan 15, 2006
rkrum
Here and there
rkrum   Here and there
There was a very annoyed sounding bat in this crack as of today about 10 feet up. Never got to see it, but sure heard him pretty much at my face/chest level and not very deep back. I backed off. Dec 31, 2016