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Routes in Hawk-Eagle Ridge

ATC T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anthurium S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Body Lice TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bold Finger T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bowling Alley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brother Jug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cinch Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Comeback Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crab, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cracker Jack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Dead Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Devo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Die Heeda Rule T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Emergency Brake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grim Reaper T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Grubble Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hangman, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Heart of Gold S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heva TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Hooker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hopscotch T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
I've Been Sick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Inflorescence S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
January Playmate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
January Rush T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Larch, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last of a Dying Breed T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Leapfrog T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lips Like Sugar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Low Profile TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Molehill Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Mountains Out of Molehills T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Nails to Nowhere T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nobody's Home T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pepe le Peu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Peter's Out T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peters Out - Roof Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plinth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Prime Time Climb T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Resisting Arete T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Roof's Way T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rupee Dog Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rush Buick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Russian Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Self Abuse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shallow Grave T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Short One T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Siberian Khatru T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Skip 'n' Go Naked T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Slide, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c PG13
Squeamish, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Stay Hungry T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Stop! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stranglehold T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tekneek T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tombstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Uninspiring Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
W T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walk About T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Werner Brothers' Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
You'll Poke Your Eye Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 6,282 ft
GPS: 39.932, -105.284 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 18,377 total, 89/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

H-E Ridge is a relatively hidden and quiet place somewhat like the West Ridge in shape, but it is smaller, with fewer quality lines, and a less desirable approach. Some very good routes do exist here but only a dozen or so. The pros are that it's not crowded (at all), shady, and protected by the wind and noise.

The cons are the approach, lack of lengthy routes, and good rock interspersed with lesser quality rock. Expect rather steep hike that ranges anywhere from 15-25 minutes.
Seasonal Closures Details

Getting There

Hike as you would to Wind Tower all the way up the hill past the start for Wind Ridge to the point where one hits the downclimb trail. Don't head toward Wind Tower at this point. Instead, find the East Slabs descent trail on the west side of the gully (near Redgarden), and follow this up steep steps. Some scrambling is required to pass through a slot over a boulder on the east side of the gully a short ways after the start of the trail.

Continue on up vegetated gully until you see a prominent roof with a finger crack splitting it. Some fixed gear may be in the crack. This is basically the start of Hawk Eagle Ridge. To reach the upper sections, continue following the base of the ridge on the right side of the gully (the upper section isn't very visible from this vantage point). Some sections of the trail are loose, and steep so be careful in wet conditions.

Per Clint Locks: there's also a super-quick walk-off option that works for everything from "Howard Placebo" to "Peters Out". The walk-off meanders north then west, hugging the cliff, and deposits you right back at your packs.

63 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hawk-Eagle Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rush Buick
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Russian Arete
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Siberian Khatru
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Stay Hungry
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Die Heeda Rule
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of Gold
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cinch Crack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rush Buick 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Russian Arete 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Siberian Khatru 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, TR
Stay Hungry 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Die Heeda Rule 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Heart of Gold 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Cinch Crack 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Hawk-Eagle Ridge »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
There is a credible report of a turkey vulture nest in the cave above Emergency Brake and Nobody's Home. Please consider giving these guys a little space until they fledge. I'll post a little signage up there this week to indicate where the birds are.

Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
303.494.0659
mike.mchugh@state.co.us Jul 10, 2017
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
We traversed left of the chockstone and thought that was an easier way up - on the way back down someone has placed some new cord around a tree that you could rap with if you don't want to downclimb the chockstone, etc. - could use a rap ring though. Apr 14, 2014
419
Sacramento
419   Sacramento
This is the Eldo crag for a windy day. There was a High Wind Advisory with 40-60 mph gusts, and the climbing here was comfortable.

Go for it. Feb 22, 2012
Dustin B
Steamboat
Dustin B   Steamboat
We found a squeeze/tunnel through just behind the chimney that is much safer and easier for those who are uncomfortable with the slab or the chimney. Jan 19, 2011
It was nice to see some guys working on the trail last Thursday. Jul 1, 2006
My dog scrambles the slab easy as pie every try. Apr 14, 2004
I agree that a ladder would not be a good idea.

Before I knew one could downclimb the chockstone side (first time down the East slabs descent) I tried to descend the slab side (Downclimbing right). That time of year, I found it covered with slime and seeping with water so we rapped the slab (I think from a tree that had slings).

As we were rapping, we saw a couple of climbers downclimb the chocksotne side and realized it was not as hard as first thought.

So, in case you are not feeling like downclimbing the chockstone and the slab is wet, you can still rap it. No need to add bolts or ladders.

Now if you are caught in a strom, you better head for higher ground and wait it out cause either way of descending could get you killed.

I have heard that there are some awesome rockslides in this gully when it rains...

WT Mar 8, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I too would vote against the ladder for a couple of reasons. First, it is neither the hardest nor most dangerous part of the East Slabs descent. The upper slab part where it is "easy" is probably the most dangerous part as a slip would likely be fatal, and it is not so easy when running with water and threatened with lightning. Second, the chimney past the chockstone is pretty easy when dry and is somewhat protected from getting wet in storms. The slab on the left is hairy when wet. Third, a ladder would be hard to conceal and you might even be able to see it from the parking lot.

It does seem like the chimney side has grown smoother over the years, there are some huge handholds at the top of the chimney but they're pretty rounded. Perhaps a discrete rap anchor would make more sense for when there is a storm. I think if the chimney was wet there wouldn't be anybody wanting to go up it. Mar 8, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I'd have to agree with the 'no ladder' stance. I jam and stem down the right side of the boulder in tennis shoes with a full sized pack on. I've seen 2 dogs make it up the slabs to the left, so all in all, I'm going to have to say it's not that hard. Mar 8, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
I agree with Matt on this one. Bad idea. Unjustified. Not dangerous unless you don't know what you're doing. The other ladders mentioned were put in due to a washout of the prior trail by a rainstorm. As you say, it can be belayed if felt necessary. It would be another example of a convenience item that would detract from the natural beauty of the location. No, please, no. Mar 7, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
What do people think about a ladder to get past the big chockstone leading to Hawk Eagle Ridge? This is also part of the East Slabs descent. It's very dangerous on either side of the chockstone although you could, of course, belay it. The west side of Redgarden has those major wooden steps and a metal ladder, but that's for erosion control. Seems like a ladder here at the base of Hawk Eagle Ridge would be justified. Mar 6, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I second Ivan's assessment. Beware in particular the route "Stranglehold, 5.7" (left of Cinch Crack). In Rossiter this route does not have an "S", but it definitely deserves one. That is one scary 5.7, assuming we went the right way! I would add this route if I could remember more about it ... Nov 13, 2002
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Be aware that many of the moderate 5.7-5.9 routes on the slabs on the lower half of Hawk Eagle ridge are hard to find using Rossiter's guide and look like they have poor pro. There are many similar climbs close together, and may of the climbs follow very thin or closed off cracks. Nov 10, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Beware, perhaps you already know. There is an awful lot of poison ivy here from about 1/3 the way up to the top. If not, steroid creams and/or prednisone work. Sep 25, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
As for the grades here, they seemed fine to me. I've climbed both Peter's Out and Siberian Khatru (as well as almost everything else there below 5.12) and I thought that Siberian might be a little bit tough, but arguably reasonable. In my opinion it isn't a total sandbag- 5.9, I thought. Having done 500+ other routes in Eldo, I believe that most of the rest of the grades on Hawk-Eagle are fair by comparison.

Since you did not sign your name, AC, I have no idea where you are coming from, what your point of view is, or what your agenda may be. Sep 18, 2002
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
I'm curious, "AC", how you can ascribe haste to people you don't even know. When I was with friends doing lines on upper Hawk Eagle in the early 80s we weren't in a hurry to "fill in". We were there to have fun; perhaps you should try it. As for the ratings, what is the complaint exactly? Sep 17, 2002
I was up at the end of Hawk Eagle Ridge today dinking around helping on a project. It was decided to rest by sliding down the ridge top roping.

I believe that in the haste of the early 80's to "fill in" that some ratings are severely flawed, specifically the roof piercing variations for Peter's Out and Siberian Khatru....Perhaps the grades below strong, first-ascender standards blend and become difficult to differentiate. Although a small corner of a major crag I submit for review by the community a resampling of these minor routes so that the record can be corrected in future editions of the local guides.

Otherwise, the upper most H.E.R. (peaceful...) has many excellent, two-three move (easily top-roped) test pieces for whatever grade they should be rated. An excellent local playground for solitude and nature appreciating, aspiring climbers. Jul 26, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Although This crag has plenty of "not worth it" routes, it also has good craging. All of the routes are fairly short, but some, such as Tombstone (11a), Die Heeda Rule (11b), Brother Jug (10a), and Self Abuse (10c/d) deserve a try when you want to do some gymnastic trad climbing. Aug 7, 2001

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