Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jim Stuberg, solo, 1981
Page Views: 125 total · 1/month
Shared By: Joe Brannan on Oct 25, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Location

This area is maybe 100 yards above the boulder move on the standard Hawk Eagle Ridge approach. The slab left of The Crab should be obvious after passing the steeper roof routes low on the ridge. The base shows slight wear from climber activity. Descend a class 4 gully 40 feet up the ridge line.

Description

Ascend the obvious corner on the right side of a large slab from a good belay platform. Follow cracks and ledges with good gear opportunities (cleaning may be necessary) up to a roof with a small chock-stone. Note the fragile nature of the rock over your head. I gave this a bomb rating as I suspect this roof could fail easily crushing climber and belayer! Make a committing move out left and find a jug to haul on just within reach. A large pine tree is an option for anchor or a top rope can be set using boulders to climb the poorly protected slab routes next door.

Protection

Good cracks are filled with needles and dirt down low. Cleaner climbing in the middle, scary loose rock at the roof. Standard light rack.

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