Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: J. Erikson, solo, 1979
Page Views: 156 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 13, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a so-so climb overall. Really it is 40' of easy scrambling past some loose rock to a brief but fun crux, also avoiding loose rock.

From the right-most end of Hawk Eagle Ridge, start up past a few huge slabbly blocks of rock onto a left-rising ramp system. Traverse delicately left on 5.5-ish terrain past the occasional gear placement and past a narrowing of the ramp/slab.

Once you find yourself under a large broken roof on a good ledge, look up for a short section of hand-jam sized crack. Place gear below the jam, work up into the jam, avoiding the loose footholds, and pull over the roof (crux) onto jugs. Some of the options for footholds are very loose, and best avoided. Pull through the notch on the jugs to the top, and improvise a gear belay over the ridge.

To ....

Location

This route is the right-most route on all of Hawk-Eagle Ridge, starting at its lowest point and rising up and left to pull a roof at a brief section of hand-crack.

Protection

A set of cams from small to 3". Belay up top over the ridge on gear and walk/scramble off to the Northeast and onto the descent trail from the Wind Tower.

Photos

Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Surprisingly fun moves through the crux, unfortunately this is only reached after 40' of bushes, moss, and choss. There is decent gear to be had low in the roof but nothing I would love to fall on. Fortunately it's a steep but relatively easy move to reach the hand jam slot, and a bomber #2 will slide right in. Throw to the jug, and it's all over!

Once over there aren't many options for a great belay, I used a the least crispy looking tree and a large slung block. Enjoy! Mar 16, 2014