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Routes in Hawk-Eagle Ridge

ATC T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anthurium S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Body Lice TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bold Finger T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bowling Alley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brother Jug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cinch Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Comeback Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crab, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cracker Jack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Crystal Gaze TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dead Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Devo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Die Heeda Rule T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Emergency Brake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grim Reaper T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Grubble Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hangman, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Heart of Gold S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heva TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Hooker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hopscotch T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
I've Been Sick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Inflorescence S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
January Playmate T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
January Rush T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Larch, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last of a Dying Breed T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Leapfrog T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lips Like Sugar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Low Profile TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Molehill Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Mountains Out of Molehills T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Nails to Nowhere T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nobody's Home T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pepe le Peu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Peter's Out T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peters Out - Roof Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plinth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Prime Time Climb T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Resisting Arete T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Roof's Way T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rupee Dog Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rush Buick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Russian Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Self Abuse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shallow Grave T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Short One T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Siberian Khatru T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Skip 'n' Go Naked T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Slide, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c PG13
Squeamish, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Stay Hungry T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Stop! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stranglehold T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tekneek T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tombstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Uncle Ernie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Uninspiring Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
W T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walk About T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Werner Brothers' Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
You'll Poke Your Eye Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: J. Erikson, S. Wunsch, B. Godfrey
Page Views: 361 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 30, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This and the Werner Brothers Roof together make the jaunt up to the top of H.E.R. worth taking. While the Werner Brothers Roof is a better route overall, this is a reasonably good climb with a technical crux that is improbable, gymnastic, and surprisingly good. The route is 5.10, but the subgrade may be according to height.

Start up as for the normal route "Peters Out" but as that climb approaches the roof and goes left around the arete, go just right under the roof to the obvious crack. Pull the crux (no spoilers here) and re-establish yourself in the crack over the roof. Head up and toward the arete again before a jutting tower above forces you out diagonally right for a few more fun and exciting moves.

To descend, rap to the North from a station a few feet up in a large pine tree.

Location

This route starts at the West arete at the top of the Hawk Eagle Ridge and climbs the right side of it to the roof, goes up and right through the crack in the roof, then back up towards the arete for a distance before splitting back right again under a second bulge/tower.

Protection

A single set of cams and stoppers with some longer slings.

Photos

Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
There's also a super-quick walk-off option that works for everything from "Howard Placebo" to "Peters Out". The walk-off meanders north then west, hugging the cliff, and deposits you right back at your packs. As of 8-31-13 there was no rap station established on the tree Tony mentioned in the route description. Aug 31, 2013
Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
Sure seems to me that THIS is the obvious line. The 'variation' should be the escape left, but "are we splitting hairs here?" Haven't done the escape scenario, but the roof is fun stuff. Aug 31, 2013

More About Peters Out - Roof Variation

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