Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: J. Erikson, S. Wunsch, B. Godfrey
Page Views: 371 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 30, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This and the Werner Brothers Roof together make the jaunt up to the top of H.E.R. worth taking. While the Werner Brothers Roof is a better route overall, this is a reasonably good climb with a technical crux that is improbable, gymnastic, and surprisingly good. The route is 5.10, but the subgrade may be according to height.

Start up as for the normal route "Peters Out" but as that climb approaches the roof and goes left around the arete, go just right under the roof to the obvious crack. Pull the crux (no spoilers here) and re-establish yourself in the crack over the roof. Head up and toward the arete again before a jutting tower above forces you out diagonally right for a few more fun and exciting moves.

To descend, rap to the North from a station a few feet up in a large pine tree.

Location

This route starts at the West arete at the top of the Hawk Eagle Ridge and climbs the right side of it to the roof, goes up and right through the crack in the roof, then back up towards the arete for a distance before splitting back right again under a second bulge/tower.

Protection

A single set of cams and stoppers with some longer slings.

Photos

Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
There's also a super-quick walk-off option that works for everything from "Howard Placebo" to "Peters Out". The walk-off meanders north then west, hugging the cliff, and deposits you right back at your packs. As of 8-31-13 there was no rap station established on the tree Tony mentioned in the route description. Aug 31, 2013
Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
Sure seems to me that THIS is the obvious line. The 'variation' should be the escape left, but "are we splitting hairs here?" Haven't done the escape scenario, but the roof is fun stuff. Aug 31, 2013