Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Jim Erickson, John Behrens, 1969.
Page Views: 2,114 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on May 30, 2001 with improvements by Carl Schaefer
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


50 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The route starts near the upper section of the ridge. Pass by the [prominent] roof (described in the rock section) and continue up the gully past some chossy cliffs. The upper section will be apparent when some reasonable looking routes start appearing. As the gully steepens, the trail turns from grass/dirt to more talus and scree. Before the very top of the ridge, the trail turns to rock slabs. Before this section, about 50-60m down the hill, look for a bolted arete and a right-facing dihedral. Rush Buick takes the dihedral.

Whew...If you manage to locate the route, you'll have some fun. There are two cruxes on the route--the first is negotiating the first bulge, then 10m later, another bulge. Some fun liebacking/stemming gets you through these sections up to an easy ramp. Take the ramp up 15m to a belay on the right with a bunch of slings. Rap 100' to the ground from here.

I hesitated giving this route two stars, but it was just long enough with an excellent crack. Maybe 1.75 stars. ;-)

Descent

Slings have appeared from time to time for a rappel descent. Alternatively, you can traverse to and rappel off the Heart of Gold anchors. Finally, you can rappel of the Nobody's Home anchors.

Eds. apparently now there is a bolted anchor.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3 Friend. Either a 60m rope or double ropes are required to rap back down.

Per Carl Schaefer: there's now a two-bolt anchor at the top.

Photos