Avg: 2.1 from 56 votes
|FA:||Jim Erickson, John Behrens, 1969.|
|Page Views:||2,500 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Mottinger on May 30, 2001 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
The route starts near the upper section of the ridge. Pass by the [prominent] roof (described in the rock section) and continue up the gully past some chossy cliffs. The upper section will be apparent when some reasonable looking routes start appearing. As the gully steepens, the trail turns from grass/dirt to more talus and scree. Before the very top of the ridge, the trail turns to rock slabs. Before this section, about 50-60m down the hill, look for a bolted arete and a right-facing dihedral. Rush Buick takes the dihedral.
Whew...If you manage to locate the route, you'll have some fun. There are two cruxes on the route--the first is negotiating the first bulge, then 10m later, another bulge. Some fun liebacking/stemming gets you through these sections up to an easy ramp. Take the ramp up 15m to a belay on the right with a bunch of slings. Rap 100' to the ground from here.
I hesitated giving this route two stars, but it was just long enough with an excellent crack. Maybe 1.75 stars. ;-)
Per Carl Schaefer: there's now a two-bolt anchor at the top.