Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | David Kozak, 1980? |
Page Views: | 771 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Feb 9, 2015 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Per Dustin Bergman, State Parks Officer, ECSP (1/30/21): the Hawk Eagle closures are lifted!
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
Description
A really cool move at the crux does something to make up for the otherwise unremarkable climbing and some poor rock.
Climb up easy moves to a left-leaning, overhanging (seriously overhanging), wide crack with an edge to it. Wind up and head out and left on huge holds though what climbs much like a roof. This cool 5.9 crux makes the route worth doing, but it would otherwise be completely unremarkable and maybe 5.6. The route may be harder for very short people, as the span to the good hold is a bit of a reach and the intermediate holds would not be very good.
Continue to climb up to the ledge and then over the top or traverse to the left to the anchor on Skip 'n' Go Naked.
Climb up easy moves to a left-leaning, overhanging (seriously overhanging), wide crack with an edge to it. Wind up and head out and left on huge holds though what climbs much like a roof. This cool 5.9 crux makes the route worth doing, but it would otherwise be completely unremarkable and maybe 5.6. The route may be harder for very short people, as the span to the good hold is a bit of a reach and the intermediate holds would not be very good.
Continue to climb up to the ledge and then over the top or traverse to the left to the anchor on Skip 'n' Go Naked.
Location
This is the obtuse corner 10' right of Skip and Go Naked. 2 shades of rock make clear the corner in question. If it is spring, a large gathering of (harmless) box elder bugs may be on the thing. I was able to climb right bpast the swarm with out them taking off until I kicked the rock next to them.
Protection
Small gear in flakes that may not hold down low, then a few random bits. The crux could PERHAPS be protected by a very wide piece in a flaky crack.
To descend, go over the the tree anchor above Skip 'n' Go Naked.
Note: this would be a bad route to fall on as a second as well.
Photos
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