Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: John Behrens and Jim Erickson, 1969
Page Views: 1,827 total · 11/month
Shared By: Paul S on May 22, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details
Access Issue: Turkey Vulture nesting closure 7/3/20! Details

Description

This climb starts off as a really nice crack climb, from fists to tight hands. The crack leans to the left avoiding a roof, after which you can traverse right and finish up on rotten rock. A better option is to traverse left across the slab below the huge roof and join the crux for Self Abuse. With the use of slings this could all be done in one pitch without too much rope drag, and if it wasn't for a small section of bad rock, this would probably be one of the better pitches of crack climbing in Eldorado.

Location

This route is in the dihedral just uphill from the bolted route Heart of Gold and just downhill of the obvious roof of Self Abuse.

Protection

A standard rack with a #4 Camalot, if combining with Self Abuse, bring doubles in #2 and #3 sized Camalots.

Photos