Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Behrens and Jim Erickson, 1969
Page Views: 1,481 total · 10/month
Shared By: Paul S on May 22, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This climb starts off as a really nice crack climb, from fists to tight hands. The crack leans to the left avoiding a roof, after which you can traverse right and finish up on rotten rock. A better option is to traverse left across the slab below the huge roof and join the crux for Self Abuse. With the use of slings this could all be done in one pitch without too much rope drag, and if it wasn't for a small section of bad rock, this would probably be one of the better pitches of crack climbing in Eldorado.

Location

This route is in the dihedral just uphill from the bolted route Heart of Gold and just downhill of the obvious roof of Self Abuse.

Protection

A standard rack with a #4 Camalot, if combining with Self Abuse, bring doubles in #2 and #3 sized Camalots.

Photos

Eckhard
Denver, CO
  5.8+
Eckhard   Denver, CO
  5.8+
This climb is GREAT!! Little to no wind, starts off on a nice off-width. Face climbing at the top. The rotten rock appeared to be the top to us, which created a nice walk to some rap bolts to the left about 15ft. Stellar climb, stout too! Dec 28, 2008
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8+
This is a good climb. The rotten rock is found traversing right and a few moves above. The finish is on very solid stone and follows a thin crack to a nice belay ledge. The bad rock is only a short section and no worse than the "rotten bands" of rock crossed by other Eldo routes. Feb 5, 2010
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.8+ PG13
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.8+ PG13
Fun. Remember to save #0.75 and #1 Camalots for the anchor if doing the direct finish (thin crack after pulling right around the roof). Gear is sparse after the roof. Feb 17, 2011
Ross Philip
Boulder, Colorado
Ross Philip   Boulder, Colorado
Nice climb, but the middle bit was creepy. The bottom part (hand and fist jamming) is great - good pro and relatively sustained. Then you pull the huge roof by traversing right on jugs to a huge horn that you can wrap a sling around for pro, but above the horn, you've got to face climb up and slightly left with no pro - gently grabbing a rotten flake along the way until you can finally slot a small wired and a purple Camalot in a little undercling above the rotten band. If you fell before the undercling (which could easily happen if the rotten flake gave way), you'd fall all the way down past the horn - nasty! Above that, it gets good again as you ascend the finger crack. So, yes it's a great climb, but tread lightly in the middle! Nov 8, 2013
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
 
15' of good climbing at the start and another 15' at the end. The middle majority is awkward and polished with funky pro. A fall around the rightwards traverse would be bad indeed. Overall not a great route IMHO. Feb 8, 2015