Avg: 2 from 19 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Stuberg and Harrison, 1981|
|Page Views:||651 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Ivan Rezucha on Nov 7, 2002 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
This route is about 30 feet downhill from Rush Buick. It's the obvious, right-leaning, thin cracks and shallow, right-facing corners. It starts right behind a somewhat annoying tree that will try to pull you off the initial hard moves.
This is a challenging route that is much harder than it looks. The angling crack and holds makes it insecure. There are few comfortable rests. You should be good at gear placements. Gear is OK, but not always obvious, and rarely bomber.
For me the crux was the first 15 feet, perhaps because of the barely adequate gear and the nearness of the ground, but also because the tree nearly pulled me off.
The rest of the climb continues hard, and you'll find yourself wishing for just one horizontal hold or good jam.
There's a big surprise at the top (say no more). Rossiter's comment, "...and see if anybody's home" IS meaninful.