Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Stuberg and Harrison, 1981
Page Views: 243 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 7, 2002 with updates from Carl Schaefer
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is about 30 feet downhill from Rush Buick. It's the obvious, right-leaning, thin cracks and shallow, right-facing corners. It starts right behind a somewhat annoying tree that will try to pull you off the initial hard moves.

This is a challenging route that is much harder than it looks. The angling crack and holds makes it insecure. There are few comfortable rests. You should be good at gear placements. Gear is OK, but not always obvious, and rarely bomber.

For me the crux was the first 15 feet, perhaps because of the barely adequate gear and the nearness of the ground, but also because the tree nearly pulled me off.

The rest of the climb continues hard, and you'll find yourself wishing for just one horizontal hold or good jam.

There's a big surprise at the top (say no more). Rossiter's comment, "...and see if anybody's home" IS meaninful.

Protection

Protections is fair but tricky. Tiny HBs, #0 Metolius TCU at the bottom, up to green/0.75 Camalot. Lots of slings and draws. There are many placements, but few bomber pieces.

Descent

Per Ivan Rezucha: As of 11/8/02, there were slings with rings through a tunnel in the roof of the cave. I didn't like the look of them, so I traversed left and down to the anchor (slings and rings) on Rush Buick and belayed and then rapped from there.

Photos

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
DESCENT: As of 11/8/02 there were slings with rings through a tunnel in the roof of the cave. I didn't like the look of them, so I traversed left and down to the anchor (slings and rings) on Rush Buick and belayed and then rapped from there. Nov 11, 2002
Not bad...but I wouldn't do it again. May 8, 2005
Frosty Weller
Colorado
Frosty Weller   Colorado
We liked this challenging Eldo 5.9 and the "big suprise" at the end... it's worthy. And if the slings are good, the rap anchor through the tunnel is bomb. Much better than the Rush Buick anchor. Jul 10, 2008
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
This route is short, but has a lot to offer:
cool location,
a hard to protect crux,
steep and pumpy climbing all the way up (with just enough jugs to keep the grade down),
and of course the nice surprise.... May 17, 2009
Dustin B
Steamboat
  5.9+ PG13
Dustin B   Steamboat
  5.9+ PG13
Spicy. Jan 8, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
The gear at the bottom is solid (purple Camalot), but then gets spotty for a while with a possible groundfall from 10-15' before coming back. Generally speaking, this route is PG-13; there are many individual placements which you are relying on for your safety, as they are sparse and singular - single points of gear failure could be catastrophic. I'm not saying that the gear is intrinsically poor, but you have to have your game hat on. This is not a route to take lightly. May 30, 2011
Kevin P
Loveland
  5.9 PG13
Kevin P   Loveland
  5.9 PG13
Does not have gear when you want it, but there is gear when you really need it. Like the comment above, the gear is not bomber. Fun route, but I would not lead it again. Be solid at the grade. Jan 26, 2012
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.9+ PG13
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.9+ PG13
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

I thought this pitch climbed much better and much steeper than it appeared from the ground. Totally disagree with SL's guide that it's awkward, but agree with his FUN statement. I thought it was quite interesting and thought provoking. Maybe it was my avoiding the awkwardness, but the way it keeps pushing you right over the steepness for your lower body with fun exposure was fantastic. Mar 5, 2012
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Great climb that is much more fun than it looks from the ground. Nothing awkward about the climbing with a sustained mix of thin crack and cool face. Pro seemed pretty good to me with some spaced out but generally solid pieces. Offset nuts/cams and a couple of small cams for the end will serve you well. The rap sling is currently nice and new with a fatty rap ring.

Oh, and nobody's home. Feb 8, 2015