Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Stuberg and Harrison, 1981
Page Views: 651 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 7, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details
Access Issue: Turkey Vulture nesting closure - now lifted Details

Description

Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20.

This route is about 30 feet downhill from Rush Buick. It's the obvious, right-leaning, thin cracks and shallow, right-facing corners. It starts right behind a somewhat annoying tree that will try to pull you off the initial hard moves.

This is a challenging route that is much harder than it looks. The angling crack and holds makes it insecure. There are few comfortable rests. You should be good at gear placements. Gear is OK, but not always obvious, and rarely bomber.

For me the crux was the first 15 feet, perhaps because of the barely adequate gear and the nearness of the ground, but also because the tree nearly pulled me off.

The rest of the climb continues hard, and you'll find yourself wishing for just one horizontal hold or good jam.

There's a big surprise at the top (say no more). Rossiter's comment, "...and see if anybody's home" IS meaninful.

Protection

Protections is fair but tricky. Tiny HBs, #0 Metolius TCU at the bottom, up to green/0.75 Camalot. Lots of slings and draws. There are many placements, but few bomber pieces.

Descent

Per Ivan Rezucha: As of 11/8/02, there were slings with rings through a tunnel in the roof of the cave. I didn't like the look of them, so I traversed left and down to the anchor (slings and rings) on Rush Buick and belayed and then rapped from there.

Photos