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Routes in Hawk-Eagle Ridge

ATC T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anthurium S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Body Lice TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bold Finger T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bowling Alley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brother Jug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cinch Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Comeback Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crab, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cracker Jack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Dead Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Devo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Die Heeda Rule T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Emergency Brake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grim Reaper T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Grubble Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hangman, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Heart of Gold S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heva TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Hooker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hopscotch T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
I've Been Sick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Inflorescence S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
January Playmate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
January Rush T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Larch, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last of a Dying Breed T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Leapfrog T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lips Like Sugar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Low Profile TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Molehill Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Mountains Out of Molehills T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Nails to Nowhere T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nobody's Home T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pepe le Peu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Peter's Out T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peters Out - Roof Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plinth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Prime Time Climb T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Resisting Arete T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Roof's Way T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rupee Dog Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rush Buick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Russian Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Self Abuse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shallow Grave T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Short One T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Siberian Khatru T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Skip 'n' Go Naked T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Slide, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c PG13
Squeamish, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Stay Hungry T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Stop! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stranglehold T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tekneek T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tombstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Uninspiring Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
W T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walk About T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Werner Brothers' Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
You'll Poke Your Eye Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: FA: Greg Miller, Jan Delaney, 1986. FFA: Jason Haas, 2009
Page Views: 585 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jason Haas on Feb 10, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Nails to Nowhere is the obvious, left-leaning seam eight feet right of the huge boulder blocking the trail at the base of Hawk Eagle.

Start at the base of a tips crack and make a move right to a jug then head up and left along the seam to a jug shelf at the seam's end. Pull over onto the slab above and follow easy but unprotected moves (5.9 X) to a large ledge. Belay on gear, scramble off right.

Location

Far right side of Hawk Eagle, just right of the huge boulder blocking the approach trail.

Protection

I used two Black Aliens and that's it. There's a nut placement mid crux, but I wasn't strong enough to place it so I skipped it. Wasn't really psyched on the quality of either Alien though, the low one seemed flarey and might rip, the high one, besides being like a puzzle-piece to get in there, is also behind a flake that seems solid, but may not stay if it had to hold a big whip. Who knows, both pieces could be bomber and I am just a big wimp.

There's a couple gear options up top for the anchor, but the one I used could be made using a SR and a #4 Camalot.

Photos

Jason Haas  
 
Sorry, the 5.9 top is still REALLY dirty (sorry I forgot to bring a brush the second time) so be careful.

The route has big moves on it, especially at the crux, so it may feel hard for the grade for shorter folk. Feb 10, 2009