Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | FA: Greg Miller, Jan Delaney, 1986. FFA: Jason Haas, 2009 |
Page Views: | 858 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Jason Haas on Feb 10, 2009 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
Description
Nails to Nowhere is the obvious, left-leaning seam eight feet right of the huge boulder blocking the trail at the base of Hawk Eagle.
Start at the base of a tips crack and make a move right to a jug then head up and left along the seam to a jug shelf at the seam's end. Pull over onto the slab above and follow easy but unprotected moves (5.9 X) to a large ledge. Belay on gear, scramble off right.
Start at the base of a tips crack and make a move right to a jug then head up and left along the seam to a jug shelf at the seam's end. Pull over onto the slab above and follow easy but unprotected moves (5.9 X) to a large ledge. Belay on gear, scramble off right.
Protection
I used two Black Aliens and that's it. There's a nut placement mid crux, but I wasn't strong enough to place it so I skipped it. Wasn't really psyched on the quality of either Alien though, the low one seemed flarey and might rip, the high one, besides being like a puzzle-piece to get in there, is also behind a flake that seems solid, but may not stay if it had to hold a big whip. Who knows, both pieces could be bomber and I am just a big wimp.
There's a couple gear options up top for the anchor, but the one I used could be made using a SR and a #4 Camalot.
There's a couple gear options up top for the anchor, but the one I used could be made using a SR and a #4 Camalot.
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