Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: FA: Greg Miller, Jan Delaney, 1986. FFA: Jason Haas, 2009
Page Views: 605 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jason Haas on Feb 10, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Nails to Nowhere is the obvious, left-leaning seam eight feet right of the huge boulder blocking the trail at the base of Hawk Eagle.

Start at the base of a tips crack and make a move right to a jug then head up and left along the seam to a jug shelf at the seam's end. Pull over onto the slab above and follow easy but unprotected moves (5.9 X) to a large ledge. Belay on gear, scramble off right.

Location

Far right side of Hawk Eagle, just right of the huge boulder blocking the approach trail.

Protection

I used two Black Aliens and that's it. There's a nut placement mid crux, but I wasn't strong enough to place it so I skipped it. Wasn't really psyched on the quality of either Alien though, the low one seemed flarey and might rip, the high one, besides being like a puzzle-piece to get in there, is also behind a flake that seems solid, but may not stay if it had to hold a big whip. Who knows, both pieces could be bomber and I am just a big wimp.

There's a couple gear options up top for the anchor, but the one I used could be made using a SR and a #4 Camalot.

Photos

Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.12d
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.12d
Sorry, the 5.9 top is still REALLY dirty (sorry I forgot to bring a brush the second time) so be careful.

The route has big moves on it, especially at the crux, so it may feel hard for the grade for shorter folk. Feb 10, 2009