Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Kor, Link, 1968|
|Page Views:||595 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Wayne Crill on Mar 26, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
Look for a body length, left-facing corner 10' off the ground that marks the start. Climb over a bulge to get onto the face then move right below the left-facing corner (.9R), looking for gear but not finding any you'll be pleased to find an original Kor KB in the roof as you move right to the break through this next roof. Above, wander back left though another roof to a steep slab above, in the crack near the tree is the orignal belay. From the tree climb moderate, very nice, unprotected face (5.6) up and left heading toward the obvious crack system on the right side of the final roof. Climb out this final roof (.10) using a flake and magic chicken head on the left with wonderful exposure and exciting movement.