Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Steve Wunch, 1970 |
Page Views: | 989 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Clint Locks on May 24, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Per Dustin Bergman, State Parks Officer, ECSP (1/30/21): the Hawk Eagle closures are lifted!
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
Description
Approach this route from the Wind Tower trail. Where the East Slabs Descent trail intersects, take that (to the NW/left). You gotta commit to a pretty boulder-y section under the overhang of lower-Hawk Eagle, but there are good holds for the 4 moves it takes to pull up onto a short slab. Above, cut right from the East Slabs trail to the vague, overgrown 'trail' that goes along the base of HE Ridge.
As the ridge becomes vertical, find a large, left-facing dihedral/ramp below a large tree. Look 20 yards up from that. Uninspiring Wall climbs a left-facing layback section to a face, and into a small roof. Pull that, then the climb ends with a short slab and a mantle onto the ridge-top.
For now, no real staging area exists for Uninspiring Wall. The base is very sloping, with loose soil and vegetation. There's a place in the beginning layback for 2 small nuts to use for a belay anchor, if you so desire.
It's short, fun, and a great way to introduce climbers to roofs.Passive gear is a good idea, as some of the rock is a bit 'crunchy'.
As the ridge becomes vertical, find a large, left-facing dihedral/ramp below a large tree. Look 20 yards up from that. Uninspiring Wall climbs a left-facing layback section to a face, and into a small roof. Pull that, then the climb ends with a short slab and a mantle onto the ridge-top.
For now, no real staging area exists for Uninspiring Wall. The base is very sloping, with loose soil and vegetation. There's a place in the beginning layback for 2 small nuts to use for a belay anchor, if you so desire.
It's short, fun, and a great way to introduce climbers to roofs.Passive gear is a good idea, as some of the rock is a bit 'crunchy'.
Protection
It's tempting to use the huge blocks to the right of the exit for an anchor. If you feel good about that, go for it, but I found them to be just too hollow-sounding to trust.As a good alternative, there's a tree at the top of the route. That works well for a primary anchor. There's also a slot for a small nut to the left of the tree to work as a back-up.
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