Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: T. Bubb, J. Meir, 2/2021
Page Views: 416 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 7, 2021
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a variation that avoids the top crux of Prime Time Climb but still goes up some good rock with interesting movement. If you find yourself up at the crux of P.T.C. and don't have it in you, or just want to do something new and different, duck right under the roof and slipper crack and into a left-facing corner & slot. The climbing on the right hand finish is 5.9 instead of 5.10 and protects just as well.

Location Suggest change

Climb up Prime Time Climb up to the splitter hand crack through the bulge, place a 2" cam with a long sling, and duck over to the right. From there, put in some gear in a left-facing corner, and work your way up that to the right side of the protrusion instead of the left and on up to the same belay. A few red or green Camalots in a solid horizontal can be used to set a belay.

Go down and to the climber's right to the large pine tree with an anchor to rap as for Bowling Alley.

Protection Suggest change

A rack to 4" is ideal, but the bottom wide crack has a hand crack within it, so this climb can be lead on a rack to 3" or so. Take doubles in hand sizes, and save a few 2-2.5" cams for an easy anchor up top.

Long slings are helpful in a few places.

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