Avg: 3 from 21 votes
|FA:||Dan Hare, Kris Hanson 1988|
|Page Views:||3,382 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Archer on Jul 16, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
If this route were anywhere else in the Canyon (other than the Rotwand) it would be incredibly popular. Unfortunately it is 2/3 of the way up Hawk Eagle Ridge, an area which has fallen desperately out of vogue despite being home to some forgotten Eldo classics, such as DOA (5.11); Cinch Crack (5.12); Jupiter (5.9); Tombstone (5.11-); and Die Heeda Rule (5.11). If one were to brave the steep hike up the eroded and vegetated trail, which seems imaginary at times, a stellar climb awaits.
If you want to onsight this route, don't read any further.
The route has three difficult sections of decreasing techinical difficulty, but increasing endurance. The first 3 bolts protect the most technically dificult, crimpy climbing of the route.
The business is at the second bolt and involves stemming the left foot up as high as possible on some good foot holds on a diagonalling ramp/crack system and reaching a small, sharp, good hold below the third bolt. There are several options on how to get your left hand on the elusive hold just below the third bolt. Once there, hit the curving ledge and stay right of the third bolt, stemming to the crack, and cruise to a good rest by a double bolt anchor.
The second difficult section is above the aforementioned anchor. Some tricky climbing involving toe points, heel hooks, and other inobvious tricks gets you to opposing laybacks and finally a bucket. (Well, its really sort of a finger bucket, but welcome none the less.) Having overcome this, there's a bit of interesting climbing to what appears to be a long runout to a bolt in a flake. Fortunately, the climbing is substantially easier than the 2 sections just described. Again a long rest is possible before embarking on the finale.
The last difficult section involves several inobvious holds. After clipping the second to last bolt off good holds, heel hook with the right foot up and left for a great inobvious hold beneath a small roof with the left hand. From there it's a long move right to an OK edge, from which some feet arranging is necessary to get a very small left facing corner (L of the bolt) with the left hand. More feet juggling to gain height and get in balance, a right hand pop to the obvious diagonal ledge and you're at the anchors. If you have a 50 meter rope, you're in trouble. If you have a 60m you'll just make it.
All in all an admirable route that tests the face climbing skills that Eldo is famous for without the fear factor that Eldo is also famous for.
One last note: Do it on a cool day.
One could place a 1, 2.5, or 3 Friend getting to the first bolt, and an alien, tcu or 4-6 rock could be placed about 2/3 of the way up, but the climbing in both of these sections is substantially easier than the cruxes on the route.