Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|Page Views:||485 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Feb 12, 2015|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
Start off in the right-facing corner, and head on up moderate terrain on so-so (at best) gear to get established in the corner. Easy moves cruise up to the bulge and into a right-traversing crack and flake. Place good gear, and head out to the right on the flake, which is more or less a hand traverse but very positive. The crux comes at the end of this traverse, perhaps (if wise) after placing another piece of gear. Do not scrimp on gear here, as this is the last opportunity for good gear for a little while.
Go through an interesting crux and up onto the right hand side of the rib of rock, just left of the arete, and climb slab and face with a short, vertical section to the top. A very long cordalette was key to getting a solid and easy belay anchor.
The first of those ribs holds a splitter thin hands crack that pops through a roof up high. That is Prime Time Climb.
The second rib holds the routes Mountains Out of Molehills and Molehill Direct. These both start in the right-facing corner and part ways about 10 meters up where a horizontal crack and flake splits out to the right for a hand traverse.
Mountains Out of Molehills takes that hand traverse and finishes up on the right hand arete of the rib.