Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 816 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The route lies about 1/2 way up Hawk Eagle Ridge. It is an obvious right-facing dihedral capped by a large roof. The single-pitch line may not be worthy of a trip to the crag alone, but if you want to also do Die Heeda Rule (5.11) Brother Jug (5.10a), and Tombstone (5.11a) among others nearby, it is a worthy day. You will find the climbing at the crux to be powerful and gymnastic, and probably only 5.10 if you have large hands.

Protection

The protection is standard, with the crux being just above a large-hand or even fist-sized camming unit.

Photos

Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
5.10c
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
5.10c
What a great roof! Lots of fun. The dihedral is a little overgrown with vegetation, but the roof itself was [awesome]! Jan 15, 2006
matt buckner
boulder
 
matt buckner   boulder
 
This is a good roof with good foot holds and good hand jams.
Also, if you want to add a good hand crack to the beginning of the pitch, you can do the first part of January Playmate and traverse over under the roof to link up to the Self Abuse roof.
There is a horn/block at the top of the roof that we rappeled off to get down. Apr 16, 2008
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
My self esteem has been restored after seeing the rating of this climb on Mountain Project. The Steve Levin guide calls this 10a, and we thought it would be a good start of the season climb. After 2 or 3 hangs at the lip I got it, and the moves seemed reasonable, but to onsight it seemed pretty hard. Rossiter calls this 10b/c. If you are short this could be really hard since you might not be able to reach from the giant foothold out left to the crack in the roof. Mar 14, 2010
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.10c
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.10c
I definitely suggest starting with January Playmate and traversing into the roof from that route. Feb 19, 2011
Kevin P
Loveland
  5.10b
Kevin P   Loveland
  5.10b
Fun climbing, always have gear at or above your head. Save a #3 Camalot for the exit move. Jan 26, 2012