Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Duncan Ferguson, solo
Page Views: 408 total · 3/month
Shared By: Luke Clarke on Mar 15, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the well-protected 5.7 crack to the top of a corner and swing out to climber's right over a small arete. Move up and left to an ascending hand traverse. The traverse is the crux and feels a lot trickier than it looks. Then ascend a slightly rotten corner system to ledges where you can move left to an anchor of slings around a block wedged in a crack.

Location

This route begins in the finger crack to the right of January Playmate (obvious hand crack) and just around the corner from Heart of Gold (bolted face).

Protection

Recommend two three-inch cams for the traverse, one for the start and one for the finish.

I don't like the anchor on this one. The block is wedged into the crack but clearly detached. I backed it up with three cams (0.75, 0.5 and 0.3) for the belay. For the descent, we scrambled up and right about 50 feet to a tree with slings. From there, by rappelling to the east (climber's right, not straight down) you can rappel to the bolts on Rush Buick.

A 60m rope does not reach the ground from the tree.

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