Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Duncan Ferguson, solo
Page Views: 578 total · 4/month
Shared By: Luke Clarke on Mar 15, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details
Access Issue: Turkey Vulture nesting closure - now lifted Details


Climb the well-protected 5.7 crack to the top of a corner and swing out to climber's right over a small arete. Move up and left to an ascending hand traverse. The traverse is the crux and feels a lot trickier than it looks. Then ascend a slightly rotten corner system to ledges where you can move left to an anchor of slings around a block wedged in a crack.


This route begins in the finger crack to the right of January Playmate (obvious hand crack) and just around the corner from Heart of Gold (bolted face).


Recommend two three-inch cams for the traverse, one for the start and one for the finish.

I don't like the anchor on this one. The block is wedged into the crack but clearly detached. I backed it up with three cams (0.75, 0.5 and 0.3) for the belay. For the descent, we scrambled up and right about 50 feet to a tree with slings. From there, by rappelling to the east (climber's right, not straight down) you can rappel to the bolts on Rush Buick.

A 60m rope does not reach the ground from the tree.


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