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Routes in Hawk-Eagle Ridge
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Anthurium S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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ATC T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Body Lice TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Bold Finger T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bowling Alley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Brother Jug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Carolina Reaper T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c X |
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Central Park T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Cinch Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Comeback Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Crab, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Cracker Jack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Crystal Gaze TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Dead Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Dead On Arrival T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Devo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Die Heeda Rule T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Emergency Brake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gluttony T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Grim Reaper T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Grubble Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hangman, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Heart of Gold S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heva TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Hooker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hopscotch T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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I've Been Sick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Inflorescence S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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January Playmate T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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January Rush T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Larch, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Last of a Dying Breed T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X |
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Leapfrog T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Lips Like Sugar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Little Hawk T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Low Profile TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Molehill Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Mountains Out of Molehills T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Nails to Nowhere T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nobody's Home T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Not Ready (For Prime Time) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pepe le Peu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Peter's Out T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Peters Out - Roof Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Plinth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Prime Time Climb T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Resisting Arete T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Roof's Way T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Rupee Dog Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Rush Buick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Russian Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Self Abuse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shallow Grave T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Short One T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Siberian Khatru T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Skip 'n' Go Naked T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Slide, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c PG13 |
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Squeamish, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Stay Hungry T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Stop! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Stranglehold T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Tekneek? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Time Under Tension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Tombstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Uncle Ernie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Uninspiring Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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W T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walk About T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Werner Brothers' Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Yellow Brick Road T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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You'll Poke Your Eye Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Duncan Ferguson, solo |
| Page Views: | 923 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Clarke on Mar 15, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: Turkey Vulture nesting closure - now lifted
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, State Parks Officer, ECSP (1/30/21): the Hawk Eagle closures are lifted!
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
Description
Climb the well-protected 5.7 crack to the top of a corner and swing out to climber's right over a small arete. Move up and left to an ascending hand traverse. The traverse is the crux and feels a lot trickier than it looks. Then ascend a slightly rotten corner system to ledges where you can move left to an anchor of slings around a block wedged in a crack.
Location
This route begins in the finger crack to the right of January Playmate (obvious hand crack) and just around the corner from Heart of Gold (bolted face).
Protection
Recommend two three-inch cams for the traverse, one for the start and one for the finish.
I don't like the anchor on this one. The block is wedged into the crack but clearly detached. I backed it up with three cams (0.75, 0.5 and 0.3) for the belay. For the descent, we scrambled up and right about 50 feet to a tree with slings. From there, by rappelling to the east (climber's right, not straight down) you can rappel to the bolts on Rush Buick.
A 60m rope does not reach the ground from the tree.
I don't like the anchor on this one. The block is wedged into the crack but clearly detached. I backed it up with three cams (0.75, 0.5 and 0.3) for the belay. For the descent, we scrambled up and right about 50 feet to a tree with slings. From there, by rappelling to the east (climber's right, not straight down) you can rappel to the bolts on Rush Buick.
A 60m rope does not reach the ground from the tree.
Photos
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