Last of a Dying Breed
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British X
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9314, -105.2879 |
| FA: | Andrew Smiser and Matt Lloyd |
| Page Views: | 2,219 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Lloyd on May 13, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
Description
This route begins as for "The Hangman". It climbs the runout and scary crux of that route but then diverges out directly above (rather than left into the easier climbing of The Hangman) into the obvious, blank face above. Climb the unprotected, perfect edges on the face on the more than vertical headwall culminating with a big move to a mega-jug at the lip.
This route was put up as a headpoint, and keeping with the spirit of Eldo, no bolts or fixed gear were implemented. It was climbed after toprope rehearsal. The rock is clean and nearly perfect. A slip from the finishing jug will result in a groundfall.
Location
This shares the start of The Hangman. It is visible from Wind Ridge. It climbs the lichen face.



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