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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Alan Watts, April 2, 1984
Page Views: 967 total · 15/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Sep 6, 2012
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

This one's a gem! Varied movement on perfect rock with protection that sometimes makes you take note of your position, but usually is exactly where you want it.

Chimney up on top of the pillar at the base of Titus (bolts) and mantle on top to contemplate the climbing above. Difficult, but doable climbing on sparse (but safe) protection brings you to good gear and fun fingerlocks in a corner. After the fingercrack pinches off, enjoy delicate stemming, arete pinching, and compression moves all the way to the chains. Awesome climbing!

Location

Right of Pure Palm.

Protection

Gear to 1", QDs.

Photos

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This is a really good route, with great movement. If your willing to do a move or two above the pure palm anchor, it's quite easy to TR it that way. There is a wrong way and a "right" way to do the top section. Don't think it's all stemming, the crux for me included an exciting dead point and insecure moves with great body tension and poor feet. 12a seems right for the grade, comparable to White Trash and Try to Be Hip. May 29, 2013
Alex Shainman
Rifle, CO
Alex Shainman   Rifle, CO
SD is a cool line for sure, not one of the best but there's hard climbing on good rock and engaging moves above gear and then bolt protected funkiness between arete and seam. Having the three upper bolts is nice compared to what appeared to have been short knifeblades in the seam. It's too bad the pillar is there and there isn't an uncontrived direct start. I didn't see a 1" placement and found #00-#2 TCU's and a #10 Stopper to be the best pro for the middle. Don't fall above the 2nd bolt before getting gear! The crux is a real thinker that's for sure! Apr 7, 2013

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