Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Chuck Buzzard, Graeme Aimeer, 1983
Page Views: 60 total · 10/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Jun 13, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

I'd overlooked this line for years before doing it while working on Body Karate and was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the climbing.  No move is all that stopper, but they're sustained at the grade down low.  The protection is a little on the thin side, but feels pretty reasonable for the Gorge.

This is the path of least resistance up the Karate zone.  Start up the only crack system on an otherwise blank face, step right at the roof, (bolt that replaced a fixed pin) and continue up a finger-ish crack above.  Up high the columns end and you climb ~20' up more broken rock to chains on the left.

Protection

Mostly thin. Doubles of purple-yellow C3s, and maybe some RPs. No ballnuts required, but you could place a few if you had them. It's also worth bringing a single set from 0.4-1.

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