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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall
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Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Bold Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Candy Cane S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Echame La Culpa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Iron Cross T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Out Of Darkness T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Split Decision T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trump Slap T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unwelcoming Committee, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Chuck Buzzard, Graeme Aimeer, 1983 |
| Page Views: | 755 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Jun 13, 2018 |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: 2023 BRIDGE CLOSURE & Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
The footbridge will be closed for replacement from August 14 - September 23, 2023
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
I'd overlooked this line for years before doing it while working on Body Karate and was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the climbing. No move is all that stopper, but they're sustained at the grade down low. The protection is a little on the thin side, but feels pretty reasonable for the Gorge.
This is the path of least resistance up the Karate zone. Start up the only crack system on an otherwise blank face, step right at the roof, (bolt that replaced a fixed pin) and continue up a finger-ish crack above. Up high the columns end and you climb ~20' up more broken rock to chains on the left.
This is the path of least resistance up the Karate zone. Start up the only crack system on an otherwise blank face, step right at the roof, (bolt that replaced a fixed pin) and continue up a finger-ish crack above. Up high the columns end and you climb ~20' up more broken rock to chains on the left.
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